Tbilisi is a unique city with authentic culture and atmosphere. Here you can find everything: ancient fortresses and temples, cobbled streets, modern futuristic buildings, delicious food, fashionable youth, cute old people, rivers of wine and techno parties.
The locals are super hospitable, always happy to show you the way or tell you a funny story. Everyone from the older generation speaks Russian, but young people don’t always speak Russian, but they speak excellent English. It feels cozy like home and rich like a metropolitan one.
Currency in Tbilisi
To understand the order of prices, let's start with the currency. Called lari (GEL), Georgian lari exchange rate:
- 1 GEL = 22 RUB
- 1 $ = 3 GEL
- 1 € = 3.3 GEL
Coins smaller than one lari are called tetri.
There are many exchange offices in the city; rubles, dollars and euros are accepted everywhere. From personal experience, we found out that the most profitable way to exchange dollars is if you successfully buy them in Russia.
Important! Often exchangers have a hidden commission (more precisely, it is written about it, but in small print). We lost 9%, having relaxed from the general hospitality of the city.
National Museum of Georgia
The main museum of Georgia will delight lovers of skulls and ancient things. There is a truly impressive collection of household items and jewelry from the times of Colchis. Exhibitions are held regularly. Also, on the 4th floor there is an exhibition dedicated to the “Occupation of the USSR” - to be honest, we were not impressed, it will be more interesting in Vilnius.
The location couldn’t be more convenient, so coming here won’t be a problem.
Address: Shota Rustaveli Ave. 3/10 (5 minutes from Freedom Square, see on the map )
Table of the “main occupier” of Georgia in the anti-Soviet hall of the Georgian Museum
How to get there. Flights to Tbilisi
At the time of writing (October 2021), due to the political situation, unfortunately, direct flights from Russia are prohibited. Air and there are many options with transfers starting from 13,000 rubles. for a round trip ticket. If you guess, you will get a convenient stopover for Schengen holders: Riga, Munich, Athens, Warsaw; without a visa: Istanbul, Baku, Yerevan, Minsk.
The most effective way to search for air tickets is here:
Find a cheap ticket
Another popular option is to drive your own car from Russia. The road passes through a mountainous region, very picturesque. There are views of one of the main beauties of Georgia - Mount Kazbek.
It is important to know!
- crossing the automobile border can turn into hell for 5-10 hours (and due to lawlessness on the Russian side);
- In winter, avalanches and mudflows often occur, and the road is stupidly closed for several days.
How to get from Tbilisi airport to the city center
The budget option (ours!) is by bus No. 37. The price is only 0.5 lari (50 tetri), payment inside through the terminal.
A taxi will cost ~30 GEL, depending on the area. Here you need to bargain for a long time and have fun.
Uber is cheaper ~ 25 GEL, free WIFI is available at the airport.
Visa Georgia does not require a visa; Russians can stay in the country for up to one year.
Old city
The main attraction of Tbilisi is Tbilisi itself. Its curved streets, paved with paving stones, elegant houses with spiral staircases, in which the fantasies of more than one generation of creative architects were embodied. After the global reconstruction and improvement of the historical city center in the mid-2000s, walking here is a pleasure.
Somewhere in Old Tbilisi
Sights of Tbilisi
Rustaveli Avenue
It’s not that the avenue itself is somehow unusual, but, one way or another, any guest ends up on it. There are museums, squares, an opera, modern shopping centers, cafes, bars, etc. - the central artery of the city. You can walk a couple of kilometers and draw your first conclusions about Tbilisi.
Next time, it’s better to walk along the neighboring streets, then you begin to feel the real spirit of the city - quiet courtyards, wooden balconies, stray dogs and cats.
Old town in Tbilisi
The modern territory of the Old Town is quite large, it includes: the Narikala fortress, the sulfur baths complex, the main Freedom Square, the cathedrals of Sioni, Metekhi and endless pedestrian streets. Everything here is beautiful, clean, touristy.
For a real atmosphere, local residents look to the areas of Avlabari, Chugureti, Vardisubani and Mtatsminda. The crowds suddenly disappear, the streets are no longer well-trained, but real. Georgian grandparents eagerly greet you and start conversations.
Narikala Fortress
Probably the main attraction. A must visit! The fortress is located on a mountain and is visible from everywhere, and from above there is a stunning view of the center and all the iconic places. Here you understand how unusual Tbilisi is - hills, ancient temples and modern glass solutions.
You can go up on foot or by cable car from Rike Park for 2.5 GEL. Open from 11:00 to 23:00, you will need a single Metromoney transport card (sold at the ticket office).
There, at the top, stands the tall monument of Mother of Kartli (Mother of Georgia). One of the symbols of the Second World War, along with similar monuments in Volgograd, Kyiv and Yerevan.
In Rike Park there is a huge futuristic building in the form of two metal pipes. The outside is really impressive, but there is nothing inside and it is not clear when it will be, funding has been stopped.
Sulfur Baths Tbilisi, Abanotubani District
The quarter is famous for its sulfur baths complex. They look as unusual as possible - low stone domes of different sizes and colors, and the baths themselves are in the basements. Some look like oriental palaces with mosaic facades. More precisely, these are rather not baths, but hot sulfur springs (baths).
There are both public ones for 3-5 GEL per hour, and with private rooms for 30-500 GEL.
We went to the most famous - the Orbelian or “Motley” bathhouse. Once upon a time Pushkin and Dumas rested here. Prices start from 50 GEL for a double room, which is what we chose. Inside the room: dressing room, shower + toilet, small room with bathroom. The water is very hot, you steam in 7-10 minutes. Overall, an unusual and unique experience, worth a try. It is better to book places in advance (in person, by phone or on the website: chreli-abano.ge).
If you walk past all the baths, you will find yourself in a real canyon with a waterfall. Is it strange to see this in the center of a modern capital? Yes, Tbilisi continues to amaze!
Waterfall
Lookout on the mountain
Mount Mtatsminda
There is a funicular going to the highest observation deck. You can walk, but it’s better to just go down - it’s a bit high). All the fun costs 2.5 GEL one way + 2 GEL for a plastic card, which cannot be returned and is only valid here. There is almost always a queue for the cable car.
The view is really good! There is an amusement park on the mountain, but, to be honest, I was never impressed. If you have very little time in Tbilisi, it is enough to climb only the Narikala fortress.
Agmashenebeli Avenue
A nice pedestrian street that was recently restored. It is located on the other side of the river from the center, so many do not even know about it. The coffee shops and wine bars look cozy, but the prices are above average.
Deserter Market
All guidebooks talk about the atmospheric miracle market. In practice, we see an ordinary Soviet market with a lot of garbage, gypsies and rats. Yes, this is the best place to buy churchkhela, spices, dried fruits and nuts. The selection is, accordingly, better than any tourist store.
Flea market "Dry Bridge"
Such places will soon no longer exist...grandfathers sell antique or simply Soviet things, coins, badges and other little things. There are paintings and different clothes. Interesting, authentic place.
Temples, cathedrals and churches
Georgia is a very religious country. Christianity was adopted already in the 4th century, that is, 6 centuries earlier than in Rus'. You should definitely visit several temples to better experience the atmosphere and people.
Tsminda Sameba
The Cathedral of the Holy Trinity stands on a hill and is impressive in size. It was built recently, in 2002, and is the second (after Svetitskhoveli in Mtskheta) cathedral of the Georgian Orthodox Church.
Metekhi Temple
The Assumption Church is hard to miss; it is located on a rocky cliff above the Kura River in the center of the city. This place is highly revered by locals; important religious services are held inside.
Zion Cathedral
The oldest church in Tbilisi, the original construction dates back to the 6th century. The main relic is the cross of St. Nino (the first cross in Georgia). Until recently, it was considered the main temple of the country.
Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Another authentic church of the 6th century. Her choir is considered one of the best in the country. Ancient valuable icons are kept inside.
Sulfur baths of Abanotubani
Baths at hot sulfur springs, located underground, are the hallmark of the city and one of its most striking attractions. At one time A.S. himself swam in them. Pushkin, who considered this place the best of all that he had ever visited.
The baths, reminiscent of the scenery for a film about Central Asia, are collected in one place and covered with a huge dome. The most popular are the Royal Baths and Orbeliani - if you have the opportunity, go not only to look at them, but to take a steam bath.
A visit to the bathhouse for 4 people for 2 hours will cost 180 GEL.
Contemporary art in Tbilisi
Yes, that’s right, in addition to the incredible color, there are several museums here, and even a whole space with graffiti. Many people undeservedly bypass these places, because... We are accustomed to perceiving Georgia only from the point of view of its historical heritage. But we will dispel these myths!
On Rustaveli Avenue, not far from each other, there are two museums of modern art:
MOMA Tbilisi or Zurab Tsereteli Museum of Contemporary Art
The museum was opened in 2012 as a representative office of the Moscow Art Gallery and is located in the former cadet building. The collection contains not only works by Tsereteli himself, but also many European and local artists. The space was created with the aim of disseminating avant-garde and national art. Here you can find everything from paintings to bronze sculptures.
Opening hours: daily from 11:00 to 18:00 (closed on Tuesday), cost: 10 GEL, website: www.tbilisimoma.ge
Georgian museum of fine art or Georgian Museum of Fine Arts
Let's start with the fact that it was only opened in October 2021. The collection contains more than 3,500 works created by more than 100 Georgian artists. The basis was the home meeting of Gia Jokhtaberidze and Manana Shevardnadze.
The mission of the family collection is to unite Georgian Soviet and post-Soviet art in one artistic institution. It is worth noting that in addition to the works, the space itself is impressive: white walls and a transparent glass staircase (very!). In general, style and art! But the creators didn’t stop there, they also created a cool designer store, a cafe and even a gym. Impressive, right?
Opening hours: daily from 11:00 to 19:00 (closed on Monday), cost: 15 GEL, website: finearts.ge/ka
Street art on the Nikolai Baratashvili Bridge
After you've had your fill of museums, we recommend exploring street art. It is certainly noticeable that even the old city often surprises with interesting graffiti. But this is not enough, the artists decided to capture the entire underground passage. Most tourists bypass the place in favor of the futuristic Peace Bridge, but you and I are not one of them, right? In general, there’s no time to explain how cool it is, just look below and you’ll understand everything yourself
And yes, it's free.
Art space Factory in Tbilisi
In recent years, Tbilisi has rightfully been awarded the status of a cultural youth capital. FABRIKA is proof of this.
Everyone who lives in Moscow or has been here at least once knows Artplay, Winzavod, Flacon or Trekhgornaya Manufactory. So, “Factory” is a creative space where you can buy new designer clothes, drink wine or delicious coffee, watch how local brutal men get their hair cut in a barbershop, check out techno dances and even spend the night in a stylish hostel. After all, after a couple of cocktails and music, I have absolutely no strength to wander home)
The name stems from the fact that there was once a garment factory here. Now, many elements have become decorative items (red brick, pipes, gratings).
Definitely, this is where the most fashionable youth crowd in the city gathers.
Oh, what Georgian wine and atmosphere there was! Yes, and of course good food, you can’t live without it in Georgia.
In general, a couple of places to visit at the Factory:
- Dive
- Pipes Burger
- Tone
We almost forgot, on the territory of the space there is a cool photo booth in an old Volkswagen!
It is worth noting that this wonderful place is located in a residential area of Chugureti. Here, oddly enough, you can feel the rebellious spirit of the city.
Website: fabrikatbilisi.com
Wine Store
Another point of attraction in the area is the Wine Gallery wine store on Tsinamdzgvrishvili Street, 39 (can’t pronounce it after a glass). Karl, that’s two whole floors of wine (yes, there is draft wine too)!
P.S. Our advice: despite the fact that, judging by the news, marijuana has been legalized there, there is no need to ask this in all bars!
Palace of Queen Darejan
The palace is sometimes called "Sachino". This is the former residence of the kings of Georgia, which was built during the constant raids of the Turks and Persians. After the death of her husband, Queen Darejan stayed in the castle for a short time and was then forced to move to St. Petersburg. The palace was practically destroyed by Turkish troops.
Now on the site of the palace there is a convent, but it is open to the public. Queen Darejan's Palace can be viewed for free.
Food in Tbilisi! Cafes and restaurants
Sorry, but if you're hungry right now, it's better not to start reading this section: there will be an ode to love for Georgian cuisine. Don’t be surprised that after your trip you’ll be looking for a new dose of khinkali!
Georgian cuisine is one of the most ancient, and besides that, incredibly delicious! Few will remain indifferent to khinkali with a rich aromatic broth or khachapuri with tender melted cheese and a glass of red wine.
In short, among the local dishes definitely worth trying:
- Chakapuli is a hot dish with herbs.
- Khinkali - words are unnecessary.
- Khachapuri - not even every resident of Georgia knows all the varieties, but there are more than 10 of them;
- Satsivi - chicken dish, eaten cold;
- Pkhali - spinach, chopped with nuts, served with pomegranate;
- Kharcho - tasty and spicy;
- Chikhirtma is a thick soup without vegetables.
Well, now we’ll tell you where all this can be found.
House of Khinkali . Website: facebook.com/khinkalihouseofficial/
Machakhela . Website: facebook.com/machakhela.samikitno
Pasanauri . Website: facebook.com/Restaurant.Pasanauri
Barberstan . Website: facebook.com/barbarestan
Tiflis . Website: facebook.com/TiflisMeidani
Don’t forget, Georgian homemade wine is a must-have addition to the meal!
Bon appetit!
P.S. in residential areas, small shops sell tandoori flatbreads. Such a huge thing for only 1 lari.
Lake Lisi
If you are tired of the city, in the usual sense of the word, then you can go for a walk to Lake Lisi. This place is located literally a 10-minute drive from the Medical University metro station. One of the most modern recreational areas in Tbilisi. There is a running and cycling path around the lake. Sports facilities and playgrounds are located nearby. When you've worked up an appetite, welcome to the Hard Rock Cafe, which is located at the entrance. There is also a beach here - in hot weather you can swim!
By the way, the real estate being built around this lake is currently considered one of the most elite.
Address: see on the map
Lake Lisi is a good place for walking
...and jogging
Bars and clubs in Tbilisi
Musical culture is very developed. Let me remind you that a couple of years ago, when they wanted to close the most popular techno club, they opened a rave right on the main square. This event is still remembered in musical circles; it spread all over the world.
The most popular site is Bassiani .
Not only local residents know it: DJs from different countries come here almost every weekend. The space is extremely unusual. The club is located in the catacombs under the stadium. Very cool: techno vibrations, no light and concrete! In fact, they prohibit using a flashlight on your phone.
Website: bassiani.com
The next most popular place is Khidi .
Located under the Bagrationi Bridge, the sound system is no worse.
Website: khidi.ge
Next, Mtkvarze .
The space is located on the Kura embankment. The club was founded in 2012, in the building of a former fish restaurant, popular in Tbilisi in the 50s.
Website: mtkvarze.com
Now about the bars
Dive is a relative of the one located in the Factory space. This time, he hid on the other side of the river, not far from the old city. A small cozy ruin bar with a cool atmosphere and creative youth.
Website: facebook.com/pg/DiveTbilisi
Bar Warszawa - don't mind that it's very small. The most important thing is that there is a huge selection of cool liqueurs and even craft beer on tap. We spent more than one evening there! Website: https://www.facebook.com/barwarszawatbilisi
Volver - amazing cocktails made with chacha and wine.
Website: facebook.com/cafevolvertbilisi
Black Dog - craft beer, cider and wine. And what else is needed after that?
Website: facebook.com/blackdogbartbilisi
This is a pleasant case when a cultural capital is also uncultural
Best excursions
Why the best? Because they have been tested by hundreds of tourists!
Seriously, you shouldn’t trust the first bomber you come across, who in Russian only knows “hello”, “how are you” and “we’re going on an excursion” =)
As a rule, we travel everywhere on our own and only in rare cases resort to the help of guides (when we have problems finding information or need special equipment/transport). However, when you are limited in time and do not want to waste your nerves on planning and implementing the route, then a quality excursion will be the best choice.
You can choose the excursion you are interested in on the Tripster aggregator website, they have a decent selection in Georgia, and each guide has a rating with reviews and ratings, which is convenient.
Accommodation. Where to stay in Tbilisi
There will definitely not be any problems with this, there are plenty of options. Prices for hostels start from 300 rubles per night, a double hotel room or a full-fledged apartment from 700 rubles. It should be noted that the choice of apartments is huge; you won’t find anything like this in Russia.
The most effective way to look for housing in Tbilisi is here (be sure to look at the rating and latest reviews by filtering by cost):
Choose a hotel
Apartments can be viewed on airbnb
Dry Bridge
This is simply a street decay that has taken root so much that it has become one of the symbols of Tbilisi. Here you can mentally immerse yourself in the Soviet era, look at paintings by local artists, smoke “Stewardess” and, if desired, purchase something from centuries-old utensils and antiques.
Our story about the “Dry Bridge”
Briefly about the atmosphere on the Dry Bridge
Where to go from Tbilisi in one day
Mtskheta - the ancient capital of Georgia and the Jvari monastery
Must visit! We can say that this is a suburb of Tbilisi (20 km). Half a day is enough, but the impressions are guaranteed. The Jvari Temple stands on a high mountain overlooking Mtskheta and the confluence of two rivers.
Gori and the cave city of Uplistsikhe
Gori is known primarily for the Stalin Museum (his birthplace), and Uplistsikhe - caves dating back to the end of the 2nd - beginning of the 1st millennium BC. e.
Georgian Military Road, Gudauri ski resort
The road is a continuous serpentine, which means you will have stunning views of the mountains and valleys below. It's great here at any time of the year. Drive 120 km.
Kakheti
The famous Alazani Valley is located here. Wine, wine, wine, oh yes, also the city of love Sighnaghi (110 km).
Borjomi
Everyone has known this water since childhood. There is a free spring in the park: the water is warm, smelly, but healthy. Not everyone knows, but in the forest there are hot baths with mineral water (walk about 40 minutes through the park). It's great, especially in winter! Silver immediately darkens.) Distance 160 km.
Kutaisi and Prometheus Cave
The caves are impressive; colorful lighting and music create a mystical atmosphere. Georgians claim that the mythical Prometheus was chained in the mountains nearby, hence the name. The city of Kutaisi itself is the second most beautiful after the capital. By the way, there is an international airport here.
Narikala Fortress
Narikala is one of the ancient structures built on the Holy Mount Mtatsminda. It was built more than a millennium and a half ago and was used by the Arabs for defense. The name, by the way, is Tatar, meaning “small fortress”. The indigenous population of the city calls the fortress “dedatsikhe”, which translates to “mother fortress”
You can visit Narikala for free. Climbing the walls of the fortress, the whole of Tbilisi is visible. Travelers get to Narikala both on foot and by cable car. The first walking route to the fortress starts from Maidan Square, and the second - from the Botanical Garden. The stairs and roads of the fortress are not paved, so it is better to wear very comfortable shoes.
Souvenirs
Most guidebooks direct tourists to the Dry Bridge. However, this is not the best place to buy souvenirs in Tbilisi. Unless, of course, you are a big fan of flea markets.
Prices for souvenirs in Tbilisi are the same in almost all souvenir shops. If you want to buy a funny T-shirt, a bottle of khinkali-shaped chacha, a wine horn and other classic Georgian souvenirs, head to any store in the Old Town.
For delicious gifts in Tbilisi, you should go to the Deserter Market. Buy:
- smoked suluguni;
- Georgian sauces and seasonings - tkemali, adjika;
- Svan salt;
- coffee;
- churchkhela and fruit marshmallow tklapi;
- tangerine or chestnut honey;
- feijoa and walnut jam.
Some of these souvenirs can be found in the Carrefour supermarket. Although Georgians say that all these products in supermarkets are “wrong”, and it is better to buy them at the market.
Pantheon
On the way up Mount Mtatsminda, the funicular makes only one stop near the Pantheon. Tourists come here to honor the memory of famous creative and public figures of the past. As an object, the Pantheon appeared in 1929 in honor of the 100th anniversary of A. S. Griboedov, although the graveyard around the Church of St. David existed since the time of the Russian Empire. The most famous burial is the grave in the grotto of the author of the comedy “Woe from Wit”, who died during the defeat of the Russian diplomatic mission in Tehran. Next to him lies his wife Nino Chavchavadze. Famous Georgian writers Ilya Chavchavadze and Akaki Tsereteli are also buried here.
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity (Tsminda Sameba)
Tsminda Sameba is the largest temple in Georgia. This majestic structure, rising on the hill of St. Elias, seems to soar over the city like a huge white bird. The grandiose complex, consisting of 10 churches with beautiful facades decorated with fine stone carvings, can be seen from anywhere in the Georgian capital. Its architecture combines medieval church traditions and modern solutions. The grandeur and beauty of the interior of the temple, replete with icons, mosaics, and miniatures, is striking. The construction of the main Georgian Orthodox Cathedral in 2002 became a significant event in the life of the country. After all, it symbolizes the unity of the Georgian people and their power.
St David's Church
This cross-domed structure, erected in the 19th century, according to legend, in the place where the Christian preacher St. David lived, is the main decoration of the Pantheon. In its indivisible internal space, images of Georgian saints occupy a significant place. Not far from the church there is a platform from which a magnificent panorama of Old Tbilisi opens, and there is also a holy spring, which, according to local residents, allows one to heal from infertility.
