#TemnikovWon’t Let Go: why tourists from all over Russia come to the oldest city of Mordovia

Nativity – Mother of God Sanaksar Monastery

After the “Old Town”, on the way to the new one, you can visit the active monastery, which was founded in 1659 not far from the city. The land for it was allocated by the local Temnikovsky nobleman-scribe Luka Evsyukov. A hundred years after its founding, the monastery was closed due to lack of funding.

It was revived in 1764 thanks to Admiral Fyodor Ushakov, who served as its rector for a whole decade, and was buried there. It is interesting that any tourist or pilgrim can stay overnight in the hotel adjacent to the monastery, and completely free of charge. On the territory it is recommended to inspect the cell buildings, chapel, refectory building, carriage house, as well as the fence with a tower and gate.

#TemnikovWon’t Let Go: why tourists from all over Russia come to the oldest city of Mordovia

Temnikov is rightly called the pearl of Mordovia. There are no large industrial production, mineral resources, or significant transport hubs, which usually become drivers of the territory’s development. This region is distinguished by something else: its original nature and rich history - names and dates, the memory of which we are obliged to preserve. The project “Where the Motherland Begins” brought activists of the All-Russian Popular Front to Temnikov land.

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The story itself

In the oldest city of the republic, they decided not to wait for someone to transform their beautiful but unkempt city. Remembering the resourceful hero Mark Twain, local talents picked up pencils and depicted on paper how they see Temnikov of the future. with the support of the created Temnikov Tourist Information Center, the bold project grew into an interactive one, and then became the owner of a presidential grant. 30 million rubles will be spent on improving the central part of the city. There will be an alley for newlyweds, a walk of fame, as well as a modern recreation area.

But this is not what makes Temnikov original. Its historical part with ancient commercial buildings, squares and merchant houses attracts to this land not only lovers of ancient architecture, but also those who are tired of the soulless appearance of modern cities. The “front-line soldiers” walked around Temnikov on foot. To the right is a men's school, built by the descendants of the famous metallurgists the Demidovs, to the left are memories of the cathedral, where the great naval commander Admiral Fyodor Ushakov was once buried, and the place of execution of Alena Arzamaskaya. Here is also the building of the Zemstvo Government, an unusually shaped gate and a former hospital where the wounded were taken during the War of 1812. Nowadays the museum of Admiral Fyodor Ushakov has been created in the building.

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It would seem like a tourist paradise! However, in addition to the delight and inexplicable awe caused by the large-scale historical events that these courtyards witnessed, wandering through the unusually sincere streets of Temnikov, you experience a feeling of pain and shame. Our generation is witnessing a real cultural catastrophe, when a preserved ancient city, which survived wars, fires and Soviet urban planning experiments, is destroyed before our eyes.

Some objects are used as government institutions, others have been transferred to private hands, but most of the real works of architectural art are abandoned and are in deplorable condition. The district administration plans to renovate 10 historical sites, but the sources of funding are not yet clear. Business is reluctant to contribute to such charity. He promises to clean up the houses they own, remove siding and ugly bright signs. But what was promised, as usual, is worth waiting for... Temnikov also cannot become a participant in the program for preserving the architectural appearance. Surprisingly, the city founded in 1536 does not have the status of a historical settlement, and therefore does not have the corresponding security documentation. But a historical settlement is not just nice words, but a legal concept.

An entire chapter in the law on cultural heritage sites is dedicated to it. the meaning of this term is in the special protection of the historical environment and appearance of such cities. If in an ordinary city you can build and demolish anything, except for cultural heritage sites, then in a historical settlement not only individual monuments are subject to protection, but also the entire historical building, panoramas, and layout.

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The city administration is fighting for status, however, this measure, most likely, will not solve the problem either; as practice shows, measures to preserve the appearance of ancient cities in Russia mostly come down to the same thing as creating a comfortable urban environment. We are not talking about expensive reconstruction here. This will require additional financial investments.

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Meanwhile, according to the expert of the regional branch of the ONF, candidate of art history Viktor Makhaev, work must begin now. — Until 2024, all buildings must be mothballed. It is important to examine them and start reconstruction from the most dangerous objects, otherwise soon we will only be able to read about the centuries-old history of Temnikov in textbooks,” concluded Viktor Makhaev.

Welcome!

Temnikov can be called the tourist center of Mordovia. No other area has such a number of attractions per square kilometer. Pilgrims come here from all over Russia with good prayers.

Sanaksar Monastery is a place of peace and tranquility. Here Admiral Fyodor Ushakov and his uncle found their last refuge. Many miracles are associated with the name of Elder Jerome, in whose honor a chapel was erected on this land. The road to the monastery is good, which cannot be said about the highway, which through picturesque landscapes leads to the reserve - a landmark territory for the entire republic. "Mordovian Nature Reserve named after. P.G. Smidovich" is not just an oasis of untouched nature, it is an excellent option for organizing a holiday in winter and summer. Tourists are attracted by interesting nature trails and excellent infrastructure. Among those who come on excursions are many schoolchildren. Part of the tourist flow comes from Sarov, which is just a stone's throw away.

– We would come more often, but the road from Temnikov to Zhegalovo is a real obstacle. The thirst for adventure cannot overcome the risk to children’s health and the fear of damaging the car, say residents of the neighboring Nizhny Novgorod region.

The ONF Road Inspectorate has already drawn attention to this emergency section of the road. The damaged road artery, about 20 kilometers long, has not disappeared from the interactive map of the project since then. The problem should be solved by the national project “Safe and High-Quality Highways,” initiated by Russian President Vladimir Putin. According to the plan, in the next two years the Kovylkino - Krasnoslobodsk - Elniki - Pervomaisk - Purdoshki - Zhegalovo - Temnikov highway will receive a rebirth. Hundreds of tourists will undoubtedly come to the city of the intelligentsia along the new highway. However, off-road conditions seem to be the calling card of the Temnikovsky district. There are basically no country roads here. there are only directions. Fortunately, the sand prevents local primers from turning into mush in bad weather. However, potholes and pits do not frighten those who dream of getting acquainted with real rural exoticism and trying treats prepared with soul.

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The ethno-house “Russian” in the village of Alekseevka will take you back centuries. Here you will not only be given delicious food with real monastery bread and fragrant jam, but you will also be able to play ancient musical instruments. The hidden place of the village is a miraculous spring. The landmark of the village of Lesnoye Tsibaevo is the house of the milkman, who is constantly “in the field of mowing”.

“Even in winter,” local housewives joke. In the wooden hut they will tell you, show you and let you try excellent dairy products. Butter, cottage cheese, fermented baked milk, milk and yogurt can be bought as a gift for your family and friends. In the ethno-house “Mordovian” you are treated to poza and traditional millet pancakes.

— All these places contain the history and life of the people of that time. And it is very important for all of us to feel connected to previous generations. Their experience accumulated over the years must be used in every possible way, and not ignored, because respect for one’s roots is also a manifestation of patriotism and love for one’s small homeland,” noted Lyudmila Narbekova, moderator of the ONF “culture” thematic platform in the Republic of Mordovia.

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A separate program awaits those who want to get to know the biography of Fyodor Ushakov better. The village of Alekseevka, where the admiral’s house once stood, will soon come to life thanks to augmented reality technology. The museum named after the great admiral, founded in 1901, amazes with the variety of exhibits. It is planned that the complex will soon move to another building.

You need to walk slowly along Temnikov. In order to get acquainted with all the sights, you need two to three days. Make sure you have an overnight stay in advance - there is a hotel in the city; sleeping accommodations are offered by the tourist complex of the reserve, as well as the monastery. Remember that very hospitable people live on this earth. They always welcome guests and also will not refuse travelers, who are now worth their weight in gold here.

Irina ZLOBINA

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City architectural monuments

Finally we got to Temnikov itself. It is notable for the fact that almost every building in it is an ancient architectural monument of the nineteenth century.

Many buildings are used as residential buildings, some are given over to city government, but there are also those that are completely abandoned. To absorb the spirit of this city, you can simply wander around it. For example, inspect the house in which the composer L. I. Voinov lived and worked (Voinov Street - 7)

He wrote an opera based on the plot of “Tales of the Pope and his worker Balda” by A. S. Pushkin. Or visit the estate of merchant Smirnov on Kommunisticheskaya Street.

There you can also see the ancient buildings of the city government, primary and district schools, almshouses, where a hospital was located during World War II. There are many beautiful buildings on Pervomaiskaya Street. For example, the house in which the public figure, poet and teacher Z. V. Dorofeev lived.

Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary

One of the architectural and historical monuments is the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary. It was erected in 1827 near the city cemetery. The militia against Napoleon gathered at this place in 1812. It is in memory of these soldiers that the Church was erected.

Location: Penzenskaya street - 2a.

Temnikovsky Museum of History and Local Lore named after F. F. Ushakov

If you are going to explore any city, you should definitely visit the local history museum in order to get to know its history and culture better. There is one in Temnikov too. It was founded in 1901 by a noble assembly, which included such famous families as the Demidovs, Obolenskys, Novosiltsevs, Ushakovs, Romanovskys, Churilovs and others. Among them, the Kulunchaks are the grandparents of A.I. Kuprin.

The museum contains truly valuable and unique exhibits. For example, an ancient Russian sword from the 10th - 11th centuries, leather shoes from the 16th century, tips of ancient spears, arrows and axes, medieval weapons, original portraits, paintings and much more.

Location: Kommunisticheskaya street - 19.

Temnikov

(The Republic of Mordovia)

OKATO code:
89249501
Founded:
1536
City since:
1536 City of district subordination (Temnikovsky district of the Republic of Mordovia)
Center:
Temnikovsky district
Telephone code (reference phone)

Deviation from Moscow time, hours:
0
Geographic latitude:
54°38′
Geographic longitude:
43°13′
Altitude above sea level, meters:
120 Sunrise and sunset times in the city of Temnikov