UNESCO heritage
The Solovetsky Islands are located in the White Sea near Onega Bay. Administratively, the archipelago belongs to the Arkhangelsk region. However, due to the geographical location and transport accessibility, most pilgrims and tourists come to Solovki from Karelia. The entire territory of the islands, as well as a five-kilometer zone in coastal waters, has been declared a nature reserve.
Solovetsky Monastery is under UNESCO protection
On the Solovetsky Islands there are many man-made objects created by man over a huge period - from the 3rd millennium BC to the present day. The main asset of Solovki is considered to be a unique complex of defensive, religious and civil buildings scattered across the islands. Tourists also flock here to see with their own eyes such mysterious ancient structures as dolmens, mounds and stone labyrinths.
Many famous people have visited the archipelago. In particular, Russian President Vladimir Putin was the guest of honor. His Holiness Patriarch Alexy II came here. The monastery hosted the Swedish king Charles XIV Gustav, Prince of Wales, as well as diplomats from around the world. The Solovetsky architectural and historical complex is so unique that it was included in the UNESCO list of world cultural heritage.
Hotels and inns
The only village on the archipelago, Solovetsky, lives largely on tourism. Therefore, there are no problems with housing here! There are several hotels on the territory of the Big Solovetsky Island. They are all located in the vicinity of the Solovetsky Monastery and, as a rule, serve tourist groups.
Individual travelers can freely rent a room or apartment from local residents in the village. There is also a pharmacy and grocery stores located here. But there are no ATMs on the archipelago. Therefore, you need to come here with a reserve of cash. The only Sberbank branch on the island is open only a few hours a day from Tuesday to Saturday. Also be careful! Living in some private houses provides only partial amenities.
If you prefer to spend the night in a tent in the open air, then you will have to obtain permission from the local administration. Since the territory of the Big Solovetsky Island belongs to a strictly protected area, tents are allowed to be pitched here only in one specially designated place, a 10-minute walk from the monastery. For the convenience of those living in the tent camp, a field kitchen and a bathhouse are equipped. The latter is available for a fee.
Through the thorns to the stars
The history of the Solovetsky Islands begins in the 2nd millennium BC. The famous Solovetsky labyrinths, mounds and seids come from those times and are still mysteries. Archaeologists have found traces of sites of primitive people on the coast. This indicates that already in ancient times there was a developed culture on the archipelago. It is difficult to imagine what forced people to settle in such harsh places.
In 1428, Herman, a resident of the city of Totma, appeared on the Karelian White Sea coast. He was looking for a place to retire. Together with the monk of the Kirillo-Belozersky Monastery Savvaty, they crossed to the archipelago and settled in the north of the Big Solovetsky Island. Not far from Sosnovaya Bay, the settlers erected a cross and built cells. This is how the first permanent residents appeared on the island.
The history of the development of the Solovetsky Islands goes back several thousand years.
Subsequently, the monk Zosima settled on the island. It so happened that he dreamed of a “great church.” This vision predetermined the choice of the place where the monastery was founded. Since then, 1436 has been considered the year of foundation of the Solovetsky Monastery. By the 16th century, in addition to monastic buildings, the archipelago had mills, salt pans, a farmyard and seaworthy ships. The spiritual patrimony of the monastery covered a vast territory northeast of Moscow.
In the 60s of the 17th century, an authoritative colony of opponents of Patriarch Nikon was formed on the islands. No amount of exhortation could break the stubbornness of the monks, and in the spring of 1668 Ignatius Volokhov arrived on the islands with a detachment of archers. An eight-year siege of the monastery began, later called the “Solovetsky Seat.” The Sagittarius were helped by the betrayal of the monk Theoktis, who showed a secret passage to the monastery. After a short battle, the fate of the rebel monastery was decided.
The fate of the monastery was no less tragic in the 20-30s of the 20th century, when SLON, the Solovetsky Special Purpose Camp, was created on its basis. In May 1923, the archipelago was officially transferred to the OGPU, but prisoners had been serving their sentences there since 1920. This place gave the name to Alexander Solzhenitsyn’s famous book “The Gulag Archipelago”. And only on October 25, 1990, at a meeting of the Holy Synod chaired by Patriarch Alexy II, a decision was made to revive the Solovetsky Monastery.
When is the best time to go on this trip?
The proximity of the Arctic Circle largely determines the climate of the area in which the Solovetsky Islands are located. Frequent winds, high humidity, sudden temperature changes - this is what you can encounter when visiting Solovki.
However, the islands have their own characteristics. Winters are mild, autumns are warmer than springs, and summers are quite cold. July is the warmest month of the year on the islands, the average temperature is about +10 °C, it is best to visit the archipelago at this time. In February, it is better not to come to Solovki; you can experience the lowest temperatures – about -11 °C.
Northern monastery
The Solovetsky Monastery, the main attraction of the archipelago, is located on the western shore of the Big Solovetsky Island. It is located on a narrow strip between the eastern shore of Blagopoluchiya harbor and the Holy Lake. For a long time, the ancient monastery was an outpost on the northern borders of the Moscow state. Its first stone buildings were the Assumption Cathedral and the refectory. They appeared in 1557. The high fortress wall was built for quite a long time - in the period from 1584 to 1594.
Solovetsky Monastery
Huge granite boulders were used to build the walls of the citadel. Only those that did not need to be processed were used. The total length of the walls exceeds one kilometer. In plan, the fortress is a pentagon with an irregular shape. In 1617, the walls were protected on both sides by ditches, which were filled with water. Later, the northern ditch was drained and surrounded by a wooden palisade.
Harbor of Prosperity
When the ship approaches the island, the monastery gradually appears on the horizon like a magical castle. Tourists and pilgrims usually head straight to the fortress. Here you can purchase a detailed map of the island and a plan of the monastery buildings. Wandering through the labyrinths of the monastery is a fascinating activity. You can even get lost in the endless passages and halls. It is worth climbing the fortress walls to admire the magnificent panorama of the harbor and Lake Svyatoe.
Wandering through the labyrinths of the monastery is a fascinating activity
Hermitages are scattered throughout the island. The paths leading to them are laid through picturesque places and pass by numerous small lakes. The most beautiful path lies to Sekirnaya Mountain. At its top stands the Holy Ascension Monastery, founded in the 19th century. From the village to the monastery no more than 12 km. The temple is unique in that there is a lighthouse on its dome. The monks lit a fire every night from August 15 to November 15, showing the way to the fishermen. The lighthouse is still in operation today. Its height is 123 meters. There are 135 steps leading to the upper platform.
Residential buildings on the island
You should definitely visit Bolshoy Zayatsky Island, where St. Andrew’s Monastery is located. In 1691, a wooden chapel was moved here from the Big Solovetsky Island, which was built by the archers near the monastery during the so-called “Solovetsky Sitting”. This happened in the second half of the 17th century. In 1702, during the visit of Peter I, it was rebuilt into a church and consecrated in honor of the Apostle Andrew the First-Called. The temple is considered the oldest monument of northern wooden architecture.
Bolshoi Zayatsky Island
Visited with excursions of the museum-reserve
The main monument of the island is St. Andrew's Church, which was the property of St. Andrew's Hermitage, which belonged to the monastery. Construction of the stone church and other church buildings began after Peter I's visit to the island in 1702.
There is a legend that, having given the order for the construction of a temple in the name of St. Andrew the First-Called, the Tsar came up with the appearance of the St. Andrew's flag, which in the future would become the symbol of the Russian Navy.
The ancient stone labyrinths on the island date back to the 1st-2nd centuries BC. Outwardly, they resemble the catacombs and labyrinths in Rome and Athens. Almost 500 similar labyrinths have been discovered on the shores of the northern seas (Barents, Baltic, White). Historians agree that they were intended for pagan rituals, the essence of which remains unknown to us.
Walking through the labyrinth is mandatory with a guide.
Solovetsky secrets
On Solovki you can find evidence from various times. There are ancient churches and chapels, a biological station, a tar mill, a seaplane hangar and gun positions. Not far from the Holy Lake there are Gulag barracks, as well as the camp administration building. The island has many ancient buildings and simply beautiful natural places.
Solovki – a place of mysteries and secrets
Among the unusual attractions, it is worth noting the Botanical Garden. How is he unusual? The one located near the Arctic Circle! It was broken in the middle of the 19th century. The secret of the garden is its location - it is located in a hollow, which is surrounded on three sides by mountains. Almost half a thousand different plants have been adapted to life in the North! Even southern species have taken root here, not to mention apple trees, which bear fruit for more than 130 years. Some of the plants were planted by Gulag prisoners.
Northern birch trees have a curved trunk
Another interesting place is Cape Beluzhy. It is located ten kilometers from the village towards Mount Sekirnaya. The cape attracts tourists in the summer, when in the immediate vicinity of the coast you can see White Sea dolphins - beluga whales. Their length can exceed six meters!
Holy Lake
The Negotiation Stone is one of the historical monuments. Its history dates back to the period of the Crimean War. In 1854, the ships of the English fleet approached Bolshoi Solovetsky Island. The monks were presented with an ultimatum to surrender the fortress. The attackers responded to their refusal with a massive shelling of the monastery, which lasted two days. The monastery survived, and a memorial stone was erected at the site of the negotiations.
The most unusual attractions of the archipelago are the famous Solovetsky labyrinths, which appeared here in the 2nd-3rd millennium BC. Their age is 4-5 thousand years - they are older than the Egyptian pyramids. Even at the end of the 15th century, the church called them “demonic games” and “signs of evil spirits.” Approaching a labyrinth made of stones was considered a great sin.
Solovetsky labyrinth
One of the mysteries of the labyrinths is the fact that they appeared on the vast northern territory at the same time. Moreover, their distribution area covered almost the entire northern Europe. The second mystery is the huge number of labyrinths. More than 30 pieces are known on the Solovetsky Islands - on Anzer Island, on Bolshoi Solovetsky Island, but there are especially many of them on the Zayatsky Islands. In Europe the number is in the thousands.
It is amazing that after thousands of years, the unfortified structures remained almost undamaged. Not a single boulder collapsed or moved from its place - the spiral pattern seemed to be folded forever. And the third mystery is why were they built? One thing is clear - ancient people built them for something vital. Otherwise, it is difficult to explain such a wide distribution of labyrinths and the many stories associated with them.
Procession
Several interesting events are organized in the archipelago every year. So on July 13-14 the Solovetsky Fair takes place. Another spectacular event in July is the Solovetsky Regatta. In the same month they will organize a sea trip to Zayatsky Island. Traditionally, it is dedicated to the memory of military sailors who studied at the Solovetsky school of young boys. August 6-9 - Days of Remembrance for prisoners of the Solovetsky Special Purpose Camp. The art song festival “On the Solovetsky Islands” takes place on August 9-14.
Mount Sekirnaya
Visited with excursions of the museum-reserve
It is located 11 kilometers from the monastery and is the highest point of the archipelago - 73.5 meters. It is rather a large hill covered with coniferous forest, high, smooth and beautiful.
The top of Sekirnaya Mountain is crowned by the Ascension Monastery, built according to the design of the architect Shakhlarev in 1860. A bell tower rises above the temple, under the upper head of which there is a working lighthouse.
From the top of the mountain you can see Savvatievo - a picturesque place of settlement of the first monks who founded the monastery.
During the years of the Solovetsky camps, there was a punishment cell for prisoners on Sekirnaya Gora.
At the base of Sekirnaya Mountain there are several worship crosses in memory of prisoners of Stalin’s camps.
Useful tips
It’s cold in the White Sea even in the middle of summer, so warm clothes are a good idea! Sometimes there is a storm at sea, fog and strong winds are possible. Ships do not sail on such days. In this regard, when planning a trip to Solovki, it is worth making a reserve of 1-2 days. In case of rain, it is worth taking with you waterproof shoes and a cape - when a strong wind blows, an umbrella is powerless. Since you will be walking a lot, your shoes should be as comfortable as possible.
The White Sea is harsh even in summer
According to generally accepted rules, women should wear long skirts and scarves when visiting temples and monasteries. In summer there are a lot of mosquitoes on Solovki, so it’s worth stocking up on repellent for blood-sucking insects. It is not necessary to bring food with you, since there is a store on Solovki. There are no poisonous snakes or predatory animals on the Solovetsky Islands.
How to get there
The Solovetsky Islands can be reached by air and water. Regular flights operate from Arkhangelsk airport. They are carried out by air. There are also flights from Vaskovo airport, from where planes fly within the region. From June to August, flights operate on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, in September - on Wednesdays and Fridays. Travel time is 50 minutes.
The archipelago can be reached by sea. From the city of Kem (Republic of Karelia), during the navigation period, daily passenger flights to Solovki are organized on the motor ships “Vasily Kosyakov” and “Metel”. The ships sail from June 1 until the end of navigation. Departure from Kemi at 8.00 and 12.30, travel time – 2 hours. Departure from Solovki is at 16.00 and 19.00. One-way ticket price: adult – 1500 rubles, children (from 3 to 10 years) – 750 rubles. Identification is required to purchase tickets.
The boat with tourists departs from Kemi
You can get to Kem by trains heading in the Murmansk direction. The pier is located in the village of Rabocheostrovsk (bus to the Prichal hotel from the Kem railway station - 30 minutes, cost from 50 rubles; bus No. 1 from the railway station - 30 minutes, price - 20 rubles). A minibus runs to the pier (15 minutes, cost about 300 rubles). When traveling by car along the St. Petersburg - Murmansk highway, you can leave the car in the parking lot of the Prichal tourist complex.
From Belomorsk (Rybny port), passenger flights to Solovki are carried out daily from June until the end of August by the ship "Sapphire". Departure from Belomorsk at 8.00, arrival in Solovki at 12.00; Departure from Solovki at 19.00, arrival in Belomorsk at 23.00. One-way fare: adult – 1,500 rubles, children under 12 years old – 750 rubles, children under 5 years old free of charge without a separate seat.
Cafes and restaurants
As for catering, cafes and restaurants can only be found in the village of Solovetsky. As a rule, they are located at hotels and inns. Often restaurants only serve tourist groups upon reservation. Pomeranian cuisine and Solovetsky delicacies, which mainly consist of fish, berries and mushrooms, can be tasted in the Stary Karbas cafe, located opposite the Solo-Nord hotel. There are restaurants at the Solovki Hotel, Solovetskaya Sloboda hotels and at the Solovki Company tourist complex.
