The Terek River is the main brand of the Eastern Caucasus, as it first separates this part of the slope from the Central peaks of the ridge, and then from the absolutely flat Nogai steppe. In addition to performing a clear geographical function, water flow has long played the role of a border. Between Cossack settlements and highlanders - Ossetians, Kabardians, Vainakhs. In the extreme eastern segment, he isolated the Turks from the Muslims of the Caspian region. At the moment, Terek is better known for its cities - Vladikavkaz, Beslan, Elkhotovo, Maisky and Mozdok and several picturesque natural parks...
general description
The Terek River has a distance from the first to the last point of 623 km (3rd largest in the Russian Caucasus). On its way are Georgia, the Russian republics of North Ossetia-Alania, Kabardino-Balkaria, Chechnya, Dagestan and the Stavropol Territory. The general direction of the reservoir is northeast. The pool is 43,200 sq. km. It reaches its greatest width opposite the village of Terek, Terek district of the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic (600 m). The average depth is 0.5 meters (during high water up to 1.5 m). Mixed food. Water flow – up to 305 cubic meters per second (ultra-fast). There are about 100 tributaries. The main ones are Ardon, Gizeldon, Urukh, Malka, Armkhi and Sunzha. The tortuosity in the mountainous part is weak, in the center and in the lower parts it is strong.
The Terek River was born along with the Main Caucasus. It has an ancient bed, passing through which the water acquires a powerful high-speed charge. That is why the power and love of freedom of the reservoir was noticed by our compatriot poets back in the century before last. And they constantly associated him with especially daring, desperate peoples living in the eastern half of the Caucasus. Like the river, they grew in “their own bed”, with little influence. And in each of the current inhabitants of this region there is the blood of the population of the Koban culture. And also even more ancient - North Caucasus. For comparison, in the ethnogenesis of the rest of Transcaucasia, as well as the Western and Central Caucasus, the ethnic-forming role is played more by the alien element - Indo-Iranian and Turkic. Here everything was different. Foreign layers enriched the language and traditions, but never changed them. The root “tr” still denotes the concept “fast” in Georgian, Ossetian, Kabardian, Chechen-Ingush, and a number of Mountain Dagestan languages.
Despite the fact that they all belong to different groups. This is what the water stream that will be discussed has been called for almost 4 thousand years. Under the influence of the aliens, only the endings changed - “Terek”, “Tergi”, “Tiirk”, “Terk” and “Terch”. So the first Cossacks (they called themselves Grebensky - because of their proximity to the Main Caucasus pass, its “ridge”) did not break traditions. They christened the reservoir in the Russian (affectionate) manner - “Garter”. For this reason, the Russian settlers of the Eastern Caucasus were nicknamed “Terek” Cossacks. Their peculiarity was best captured by Leo Tolstoy in his novel “Cossacks”. The fact is that the first wave of settlers was so saturated with the spirit of local traditions that the direct descendants of the “Grebensky” colonists were no longer different in character (and often in clothing) from the aborigines. By the time of the height of the Caucasian wars, the generation brought up in the Caucasian spirit was already living out its life. Therefore, it is this novel by the great prose writer (along with War and Peace) that historians and ethnographers consider the most valuable. The “Grebentsi” were strikingly different from the representatives of the rest of the Cossacks. The first description of the Terek River was compiled by them. And this was back at the end of the 15th century. From that map (compiled from their words) some things even passed on to the modern one. Listen to the toponyms: “Grebensky Most”, “Grebenskoye”, “Garbani”... Ivan the Terrible made a wise conclusion regarding the most ancient branch of the “Don”: it is better to be friends with such people, it is better to help such people. He supplied weapons, ammunition, and sometimes food to the “thieves” hordes of “Grebentsy”, strengthening the authority of the Slavic population in the most “difficult” part of the Caucasus. If he had acted differently, everything could have turned out differently. The Caucasus would have completely “absorbed” our first (“Grebensky”) wave of settlers. A new people of the Koban culture would appear.
But it happened as it happened. The Terek River has been located for many centuries in the zone of active Russian development. Her Ottoman rival never achieved what she wanted... 5 Terek towns of the Caucasian Fortified Line laid the foundations of inviolable borders, which were pushed further and further to the south. The Terek population recognized itself as part of Russia. In 1870, on the basis of his heroic hundreds, the victorious Kizlyar-Grebensky regiment of the Terek Cossack army was formed. Its “capital” became Vladikavkaz (at that time the main “gate” of Russia to Transcaucasia). The economic use of the Terek River began almost at the same time. The wild nature of the reservoir was “tamed” with the help of canals and small ditches, at the same time increasing the performance in agriculture. The Terek Cossacks knew how not only to fight, but also to work. A dramatic episode in the biography of Priterechye - the first years after the Revolution. The Ingush (part of the self-proclaimed Mountain Republic), realizing the death of the Russian empire, began to raid border villages. The fact is that the “right to self-determination” was given to the highlanders by the Bolsheviks. This lost their authority in the eyes of the local Russian population. The Terek Cossacks supported Denikin's units. The situation was aggravated by the fact that the Bolsheviks responded by fighting together with the Caucasians of the Mountain Republic (it changed its name 4 times). The “Terek people” were attacked from both sides. Therefore, there was no long-term bloodshed - the forces were too unequal. The results of the Civil War in the Terechye region were the instant physical elimination of several tens of thousands of people and the formation (a little later) of the Chechen-Ingush and Dagestan republics. As for North Ossetia, its Orthodox population did not want to be part of the Mountain Republic (whose traditions were based on Sharia) and, for the most part, did not take part in the genocide of the Terek Cossacks. In 1921, the North Ossetians were annexed to the Mountain Republic by a special decree - through a congress of local Bolsheviks.
At this stage, the Terek River temporarily found itself in a conflict zone. The population of present-day South Ossetia became part of the Georgian SSR according to the same principle. Everything was then decided by a majority; Georgians prevailed at the congress. During the Second World War, the desired hydrological object played a major role in stopping the Nazis’ movement to the east. It was the Mozdok-Malgobeg operation of the Red Army and the heroic Vladikavkaz resistance that successfully completed the invaders’ plans for a “breakthrough” to Baku oil. On September 28, 1942, the history of the retreat of the Wehrmacht “mountain” forces began. In the post-war period, the Tersky cascade of hydroelectric power stations was built in the river basin, which includes 5 energy structures. These include:
- Daryal HPP (annual output 510,000,000 kW/h);
- HPP Larsi (annual output 100,000,000 kW/h);
- Ezsminskaya HPP (annual output 251,000,000 kW/h);
- HPP Dzau (annual output 41,900,000 kW/h);
- Pavlodolskaya HPP (annual output 1,200,000 kW/h).
In the future, the leadership of our country plans to build 4 more Terek power plants. The “unbridled” potential of this river is far from exhausted. In the 90s of the last century, the eastern half of the basin became one of the two main areas of the theater of military operations of the Chechen armed conflict. Nowadays, national parks with broad rights for visitors have been formed in Georgia and in a number of Russian sections of the Terechie region. By the way, the most popular, according to tourists from different countries, today is the Georgian Kazbegi nature reserve with a view of the mountain of the same name.
Population
Population | |||||||
1939 | 1959[3] | 1970[4] | 1979[5] | 1989[6] | 1992[7] | 1996[7] | 1998[7] |
4500 | ↗6647 | ↗10 422 | ↗12 335 | ↗16 559 | ↗17 800 | ↗18 500 | →18 500 |
2000[7] | 2001[7] | 2002[8] | 2003[7] | 2005[7] | 2006[7] | 2007[7] | 2008[7] |
→18 500 | →18 500 | ↗20 255 | ↗20 300 | ↘20 100 | ↘19 900 | ↘19 800 | →19 800 |
2009[9] | 2010[10] | 2011[7] | 2012[11] | 2013[12] | 2014[13] | 2015[14] | 2016[1] |
↗19 843 | ↘19 170 | ↗19 200 | ↗19 273 | ↗19 329 | ↗19 446 | ↘19 442 | ↘19 426 |
As of January 1, 2021, in terms of population, the city was in 692nd place out of 1,112[15] cities in the Russian Federation[16]
Density - 1618.83 people/km2.
National composition
According to the 2010 All-Russian Population Census[17]:
People | Number of people, people | Share of the total population, % |
Kabardians (Circassians) | 16 400 | 85,6 % |
Russians | 1 917 | 10,0 % |
Ossetians | 219 | 1,1 % |
other | 634 | 3,3 % |
Total | 19 170 | 100,00 % |
Sex and age composition of the population
According to the 2010 All-Russian Population Census[18]:
Age | Men, persons | Women, persons | Total number, people | Share of the total population, % |
0 – 14 years | 1 743 | 1 765 | 3 508 | 18,3 % |
15 – 59 years | 6 107 | 6 993 | 13 100 | 68,3 % |
from 60 years old | 908 | 1 654 | 2 562 | 13,4 % |
Total | 8 758 | 10 412 | 19 170 | 100,0 % |
Men - 8,758 people. (45.7%). Women - 10,412 people. (54.3%)[19].
The average age of the population is 35.5 years. The median age of the population is 33.6 years.
The average age of men is 33.6 years. The median age of men is 31.2 years.
The average age of women is 37.0 years. The median age of women is 35.8 years.
Source and mouth of the Terek River
The source of the Terek River lies on one of the slopes of the Main Caucasus - on Mount Zilga-Khokh. On the Alpine stage there are 2,713 meters. Administratively, the hill belongs to the Georgian region of Mtskheta-Mtianeti. Beyond the southern foot is the border with South Ossetia.
The mouth of the Terek River lies between two elongated estuaries of the Caspian Sea, in a lowland at minus 28 meters above sea level. Geographically, this is the Babayurt district of the Republic of Dagestan. The width of the Caspian entrance is 295 meters. Among these two artificial bays, the water “artery” flows 2 kilometers along the dam. And in the ridge itself there is a rocky island stretched for 450 meters.
Terek River Basin
Coming out from under the glacier cap, the first 1.5 kilometers of the watercourse resembles a stream up to 60-70 centimeters wide. Afterwards there is a river 1.5 meters across. Here it enters a still low canyon, which in the area of the Georgian village of Tepi turns into a medium-height gorge. All this time, some fragments of the Terek River are blocked by a crust of icy snow. Here the water system turns south. And then he makes two more sharp loops, passing 12 small settlements. In the Trusovsky Gorge (in the vicinity of the village of Almasiani), the Terek River basin is already replenished by several streams. From the bridge you can safely get on a kayak or inflatable raft. The width of the hydrological object is up to 130 meters (it already consists of “threads” and also has islands). The “watermen” go to Almasiani itself through the village of Kobi (from here the watercourse follows along the Georgian Military Road). So, we are talking about a continuous shiver of medium complexity. Within this designated administrative area, the Terek River basin is gradually filled with water from such prominent branches as Mnaisidon, Baydara and Khevia, bypassing another 8 settlements.
In Stepantsminda (Kazbek is visible to the side) the river meets 2 more large springs. Here it finally gathers into a single stream up to 35 meters wide. On all sides there is still a mountain steppe. Further along the Terek River passes the famous Daryal Gorge, already densely covered with hornbeam, beech and Caucasian oak. It crosses the border with the Russian Federation (passes through the settling tank of the Ezsminskaya hydroelectric station, and absorbs the “Ingush” arm of the Armkhi). At the point where the Skalisty Ridge breaks through, the stream passes through the Balta Gorge and crosses the line of the suburbs of Vladikavkaz. In the Ossetian “capital”, travelers encounter 2 dams. The width of the channel here is at least 150 meters (from the village of Redant). The only slope (to the west) occurs in the northern suburb – the residential sector of Lokomotiv. North Ossetia gives Ardon, Gizeldon and Urukh to the Terek basin. Then, meandering along the foothills, the river makes large bends, and in the CBD areas - complex bends, carefully avoiding each hill. Most of the highway bridges pass over the river body here. Moreover, in Elkhotovo you can run into the remains of the piles of the old bridge. In the middle section (namely in the CBD) the diameter is already up to 600 meters (there will be no more), and along the banks there are dense gardens or fields with ears of grain. You will pass the catchments of the Small Kabardian irrigation system and a bunch of canals. The system “sucks” Malka into itself. Beyond Maiskoye (KBR), the flow begins to smoothly turn east. There are many shoals and dams before and after Mozdok. The Stavropol course of the Terek River is distinguished by its shortness (only 17 kilometers) and the most active tortuosity. The Tersko-Kuma Canal, built back in 1952, also starts from here. In Chechnya, the riverbed is absolutely flat, with flat fragments of terrain on the southern side and a significant drop in speed. And from Nadterechny the river valley is a terrace between 2 levels of depression. Beyond Vinogradny the riverbed turns into dense tracts of deciduous forest. On the border with Dagestan, the Terek absorbs Sunzha, changing the vector to a more northern one. In the said republic itself, the river course is surrounded by steppe and semi-desert, passing by lakes and oxbow lakes, connecting with numerous irrigation canals. It narrows sharply. The estuary begins in the coastal section of the Babayurt district of the 5th region.
Toktamysh Khan gathers an international coalition against Timur
By the summer of 1392, Toktamysh Khan had completely restored his power in the Golden Horde. At the beginning of 1394, Toktamysh’s ambassadors arrived in Egypt with an offer to be with one “hand against the rebel villain Timurlenko.”
The Golden Horde, Ottomans and Mamluks tried to somehow coordinate their actions against Timur. Negotiations were held on the creation of an anti-Timur alliance with the participation of these states. The chronicle of Ibn Tagriberdi says that an anti-Timur coalition was created. The Arab chronicler reports that it included Toktamysh, the Ottoman ruler Bayezid, the Mamluk Sultan Barquk, the emir of Sivas Ahmed Burhaneddin, the ruler of the Kara Koyunlu Kara Yusuf, the Jelairids, the ruler of Mardin and the Turkmen emir.
In order to capture the Daryal Gate, the army of Aksak Timur invaded Georgia in 1394. However, the Golden Horde army went behind enemy lines and cut off Timur from all communication supplies, creating a threat for him to remain encircled. Timur was forced to retreat.
Timur attacked Georgia immediately after the Syrian campaign. Therefore, he had significant forces at his fingertips. But, seeing the readiness of Toktamysh Khan, who, judging by his actions, took an active defense, which consisted in the use of counterattacks, Timur stopped in Northern Azerbaijan for the winter. An order was given to gather additional troops. This invasion was sudden, since it was not clear who Timur would go against. However, Toktamysh was ready, although he sent his envoys to Timur. But Timur still attacked.
The Arab chronicler reports that the anti-Timur coalition included Toktamysh, the Ottoman ruler Bayezid, the Mamluk Sultan Barquk, the emir of Sivas Ahmed Burhaneddin, the ruler of the Kara Koyunlu Kara Yusuf, the Jelairids, the ruler of Mardin and the Turkmen emir. Photo wikipedia.org (Bayezid I)
Sights of the Terek River
Trusovskoye Gorge
The source of the Terek River quickly turns into a plumping stream, suddenly disappearing into the canyon. The chasm is located between the Side and Vodorazdelny ridges of the Main Caucasus. It stretches for 31 kilometers to the western and southwestern sides, exclusively along the river. From the north it abuts the Kazbek-Dzhimara massif of Georgia and Ingushetia (peaks 4000 m), and from the south – to the Kel plateau of South Ossetia (up to 3000 m). The canyon is an example of a volcanic landscape (the geological border of the Central and Eastern Caucasus). Lava flows are interbedded with sedimentary rocks and river alluvium. Characteristic of the Trusovo landscape are both glacial moraines and travertines (deposits of mineral springs, for which Truso is often called the “Valley of Narzans”). Information about the eruptions is preserved in the legends of all Koban peoples. The plant image is associated here only with the poor alpine flora.
Kazbegi National Park
In a protected area, rafting on the Terek River promises you a meeting with the Zakagori Tower and the Sacred Grove. This is even higher than the Trusovsky Gorge - one section of this gas reserve already exists at the source of the river, in the area of the village of Karatkau. The main territory of the prohibited area is associated with the entry into the canyons of different branches - in the segment from Garbani to the Ermolovsky Stone itself. – Daryali Gorge, the Daryali Monastery (10th century) towering above it and Ermolovsky Stone. It is installed in the neutral zone of the Georgian-Russian border. A few words about the named stone meme. Back in 1821, General A. Ermolov ordered to stop at the boulder to rest. The monasteries of Zion and St. George (Garbani), Elijah the Prophet (Stepantsminda) and the Trinity Church (on the way to the foot of Kazbek) were also built in the protected area. There is a funicular station Kobi-2, from which it is possible to climb to any of the peaks of the Gudauri resort (located in the reserve of the same name). The total area of protected areas is 9030 hectares. They received their status in 1976. The third part is covered with subalpine forests (Radde birch, rowan and pine). The upper third of the flora is alpine (lichen, moss, astragalus flowers and other small ephemeral polymorphs, rhododendron and juniper). The last 33% is a dense forest stand of the lower tier (roadside poplar, high-mountain maple and ash). Dense grass. Granites are exposed in many places.
The described section of the Georgian Military Road is subject to mudflows, snow avalanches, and rockfalls. You should not choose the off-season to travel there.
Balta Gorge
Now, after passing along the occupied lake and the village of Chmi, the Terek River gradually leads us from the neutral zone to the “real” Russia. However, ahead she still needs to “break through” a piece of the Rocky Ridge. The gorge at this point was named Baltiyskaya - after the name of the village that greets visitors on the western shore.
At the exit, the gorge passes into the Redant Valley (named after the nearest settlement). Next is the plain. The reservation is ideal for a photo shoot and a picnic somewhere near the slope. Beautiful. Because the valley is quite wide, with rock outcrops on the right hand and trees bizarrely growing right out of the rocky surface. In the treeless terrace above the floodplain (it is already on the left hand) there are many ruts. Car enthusiasts like to stop here for barbecue. The best vantage point for viewing Table Mountain is at this point. Next, there is an expansion of the “corridor” - the Redant section of the flow, which is already considered suburban. This is where dachas and attractive-looking suburban areas begin. The Tara highway makes it possible to go east - into the hollow between the foothills and hills (Yuzhny district). One of these hilly, equipped parks opens to the southwest of Balta. Once upon a time, it was specially populated exclusively by Georgians and Ossetians - to fight the Tagaurs (an Ossetian tribe that controlled the passage in which the Georgian Military Road was built). The first forts appeared here, the network of which led to the center of today's Vladikavkaz. And there were much more trees on both banks then.
Vladikavkaz city
The agglomeration indicated in the title began with the administrative center of the Terek Cossacks. And he was a strategically important link in the Mozdok Fortification Line. Construction of the city began immediately after the Orthodox Ossetians officially became part of the Russian Empire. This happened in 1783-1784. Other local history information can be found in the historical museum. Once on Kirov Street, at the same time go out to the very monumental railway station. And if you go in the other direction, sooner or later you will find yourself on the bridge of the same name across the river. At this stage of the journey, the Terek River is located on a section of the best bank protection - in a deep and reliable channel. In general, the center of the western half of the Ossetian “capital” is famous for its planetarium, 2 theaters, and the most interesting episode of Costa Avenue (shops, malls, bazaars). You will find a “signature” fragment of the city from another turn from the Kirovsky Bridge - the southern one. The fact is that Kotsoeva Street will lead the guest to a luxurious mosque, skyscrapers, the Glory Memorial Park and the zoo. Crossing the Cast Iron Bridge you will see the embankment of General Pliev (a monument to him, a welcoming inscription in Ossetian, the famous composition of the galloping hero Uastardzhi). The latter looks good against the backdrop of the rising Terek River and Table Mountain on the horizon. Notice the city hall, golden lions at the ends of the bridge and the museum-reserve "Old Fortress of Vladikavkaz", adjacent to the Church of the Nativity of the Blessed Virgin Mary. All this is the area of the General Pliev Bridge.
On the way to these objects, you will admire the curious “steps” along which the Terek moves. All that remains is to visit Mira Avenue, which has completely preserved the appearance of the beginning of the last century, capture yourself against the backdrop of Gorodnichy and try the local beer “Narton”, which is similar to delicious kvass. You can get there through the Chugunny Bridge by moving along the street. Chermen Baev and Freedom Square. Many will be interested in the green and skillfully decorated with flowers K. Khetagurov Park. Along the “passage” highways there are a lot of memorials to WWII Soldiers and altars to Ustardzhi and Wasilla (they are the main patrons of the Ossetian people).
Beslan city
In the fragment outside the northern outskirts of Vladikavkaz, the flow of the Terek River has already left all the dams and a whole galaxy of bridge crossings. The stream branches widely, going along the natural bed. Extremely shallow. The brand of the municipality indicated in the top line is the forged Tree of Sorrow at the exit to the Center-Airport highway. This refers to the monument to the Victims of the 2004 Terrorist Attack. Here, visit other monuments of the Memorial Cemetery and the city hippodrome. In the center of the town is the Church of St. George the Victorious. Near the station there is a sculptural composition in honor of the famous Tagaurian, the founder of the settlement, Beslan Tulatov-Alikov. He brought all his relatives and kunaks here during the Great Migration of the Villages of the 17th and 18th centuries. But the embankment attracts only the Sunday market and the entrance stele (500 meters from the water’s edge). The city says goodbye behind the Farnovsky Bridge
Shutlyago-Gok forest and the city of Elkhotovo
Transport use of the Terek River is usually practiced here (we are, of course, only talking about rafts and kayaks). On the way to Kabarda, the river gradually widens and becomes deeper. But literally before this moment, on the left hand there will be a view of a dense natural arboretum - the Shutlyago Gok landscape reserve. It extends to the west for 20 kilometers - to the bed of the Urukh River. And its maximum width is 8.5 km. In terms of relief, this is a huge hill (“gok” in the Digor dialect of Ossetian - “mountain”). To the east (already on the other bank, in the distance) the similar Kurp forest still pleases the eye. The wooded hill of Shutlyago is an excellent opportunity to camp on the water's edge. The main thing is not to drive a car near the water. Ash, Caucasian maple and poplar are the main inhabitants of the reserve. And among them are several family sanctuaries. There is also a tree with large pendulous branches, similar to vines, and various ferns. On the slope of Shutlyago there are small grottoes - shelters from the rain.
On the opposite bank we will approach the city of Elkhotovo, which originally appeared (1838) as a village of Ossetian Muslims. They just came from the areas that have now become the city of Vladikavkaz. Settlement was active until Soviet times. After the Revolution, there were already 3 mosques here. Today believers of different faiths live here. Not only the mosques, but also the Sanctuary of Huastarja are considered “symbols” of the municipality. The most interesting thing is that the remains of a 10th century settlement – Upper Dzhulat (also known as the City of Dedyakov, also known as Tatartup, also known as the Elkhotov Gate) – were discovered very close by. It was once the main sanctuary of the multinational Alan Empire. Only with the arrival of the Horde here did Dzhulat turn into an ordinary trading post. Researchers still want to discover its secret. There is access to the excavation site directly from the P-217 highway (this is exactly where the northeastern corner of the Shutlyago-gok thickets is). During the Second World War, the Elkhot Gate was heroically held by local Red Army soldiers. And the obelisk along the desired road is also dedicated to this event.
Urukh forest
In this reservation, sites on the Terek River will amaze travelers with the same set of flora. Plus flower meadows visible from afar. This time the conversation is about the lowlands. However, if you go up Urukh, in the Kurtimas tract (a rocky cliff up to 10 meters high in the canyon part) you will find beech, hornbeam and Caucasian oak (the named place is located higher). The thicket sharply narrowing to the west stretches along the river of the same name from its mouth to Stavt-Durta for 8.7 kilometers. The maximum width at the confluence of Urukh and Terek is 7 kilometers. The historical place is the border between Greater Kabarda and the Digor Ossetian Society. Above the village of the same name, the river has a level of complexity, but here it is already branched into shallow branches. You can also set up bivouacs. Among the sandy and rocky islands there are also two agricultural plots on more fertile silt soil.
Maysky city
Here the flow of the Terek River is wide, and the sides of the reservoir are lined with vineyards. Maysky is the only wine-making center in the CBD. The economy developed back in the era of collective farms. And now it is a closed joint stock company. The rural municipality did not arise out of nowhere. Once upon a time, in the area between the Cherek and Terek rivers, there was a Russian garrison bastion (square in plan). It was erected on the land of one of the villages of medieval Greater Kabarda (it managed to maintain a high status even in Horde times). The construction of Russian fortification dates back to 1824. For a long time, the point was designated on the map as the village of Prishibskaya. It began to develop in breadth with the advent of Kotlyarevskaya station. And it became the city of Maisky during the period of decossackization of the 30s. Today (in addition to the enterprise decorated with “pseudo-Gothic splendor” and the castle of its owner, who recently joined the association of winemakers), vacationers are attracted by fishing gazebos (50 rubles per place).
Phabida-mas forest, Dzalmas reserve and Lukovskaya grove
Rafting on the Terek River in the middle fragment of the waterway is distinguished by passing through an expansion (Terek village - up to 600 meters), a new branching into channels and a turn to the east. But it is gradual. Along Phabida Masa is just beginning. And here you can just see a narrow but dense floodplain, consisting of 3 protected landscape parks (their names are in the title). The distance from the “start” to the “finish” is 49 kilometers according to the map (the longest forest park). In the central part, Malka flows into the basin from the north. Here the final transition to the southeast vector occurs. Residential farmsteads run exclusively along the southern shore. The Aborigines never developed floodplain forests. Left bank forest heights (Tersky ridge) average 120-150 meters. The Right Bank (Kabardian Plain) is agricultural land. Dzalmas lies on a fairly large river island. Alder, oak, poplar, maple, willow, wild apples, and rich grass grow in the green belt. Opposite Pavlodolskaya there is another large forest island, and next to it are smaller pieces of land.
City of Mozdok
Here in front of us is the Terek River, once again gathered together. Any kind of fishing is possible here, but it’s worth exploring the sights as well. The mountains are moving beyond the Caucasus highway. Mozdok appeared in the Mezdoga tract (the word “Mozdok” is a tracing-paper from this particular toponym). The settlement began in 1759. One of the Kabardian princes, having accepted Russian “citizenship,” moved here with his subjects. So near the Holy Grove (now these are the reserves described above) a settlement began to grow. The work of settlement was continued by Russian and Ossetian peasants. Since 1763, the Mozdok Fortification Line began to be built from here. The citadel took 2 years to build. In 1770, 517 families of Volga Cossacks migrated here. In the 1780s, a military highway (the forerunner of the A-161) was laid all the way to Tiflis. At the beginning of the 19th century. This is an already developed settlement, distinguished by an even more variegated national color. After all, Kumyks also move here from the Nogai steppe. And in 1915, many Armenians were traveling. Now the town is 8.5 km long. On the embankment he has Victory Park with a serpentine pond decorated with lawns, a number of sculptures, a cafe and a beach area. In the center is the Assumption-Nikolskaya Church. In the suburb called Lukovskaya there is Lake Kiev. During Soviet times, there was a military airfield. All that was left of him was the plane. The historical part still displays the casemates of the Mozdok fortress. There are 2 eternal flames (the city, among others, participated in the Mozdok-Malgobek liberation operation).
Alborovsky forest
From Mozdok (translated as “dense dark forest”) to Oktyabrsky, the Terek River passes through the last section of North Ossetia-Alania (before entering the Chechen Plain). But the Alborovsky forest also goes to Chechnya. What is he like? The same dense massif, identical in composition to those described above. Spreading oaks. Accompanies the Terek from 2 sides at a distance of almost 8 kilometers. The branches touch the water.
Village Gvardeiskoe
In this reservation, intended for recreation, sites on the Terek River provide several tent opportunities. But remember, Chechens don’t particularly like garbage. There is a pebble dump. The village of Ali-Yurt (Elin-Yurt) was renamed Gvardeyskoye in 1944 (during the period of deportation of small nations). In memory of the defenders of the Fatherland who came out from here and bravely fought the Nazis in 1942. There is a mosque.
Shelkovskaya Forest, Grebenskaya Most and Khamamatyurtovsky reserves
This is probably the brightest place in all of lowland Chechnya and border Dagestan. The lower fragments of the stream are continuous fields, private buildings, wholesale warehouses, car service centers and gas stations. And then, believe me, until the very mouth, the Terek River will not present any more beauties to your gaze except for the “bald” half-salt lakes of the semi-desert, flickering somewhere in the distance. So, the Shelkovskaya forest begins to the southwest of the village of the same name. An array measuring 15 by 6 kilometers consists of poplar, ash and acacia. Moreover, poachers got into the habit of cutting down the latter.
Grebenskaya Most is a more modest-sized recreation area near the object of the same name. Once upon a time in this part of the Khasavyurt region of Dagestan there was a farm of the Greben Cossacks. The place is historical. The Khamamatyurt reserve (Babayurt district) is named after the nearest village. It is the last episode of the river floodplain. A very sparse strip. The plant composition is already noticeably depleted - elm, ash, acacia. The Nogai steppe actually begins from the village of Khoshgildeotar. On the opposite side there is the village of Starogladovskaya, where the young soldier Leo Tolstoy was inspired to write “Cossacks”. It was here that the Terek villages met with the villages of Chechnya and at the same time Nogai settlements. Many Terets and Chechens often stole horses from the Nogais. Stories about dashing people became the basis of the plot. The Terek shores are often washed away here.
Where weapons failed, betrayal worked.
Towards evening, the position of Timur's army began to improve. Khudad Hussein was able to get behind the Aktau troops and began to shower them with arrows. And the center of Timur’s army hit the right “wing” of the Tatar army, which surrounded Timur. The detachments of Jehanshah and Haji Seif-ad-din ambushed the left flank of Toktamysh. Thanks to this, the Tatars were unable to win on the first day of the battle. During the night, Tamerlane and his military leaders had to put their army in order, which was badly battered, and build corps according to the order of battle.
Early in the morning of April 16, the Tatars were again the first to begin the battle. Toktamysh now moved his left flank under the command of Isa-biy and Yakhshi-haji. Having overthrown the enemy's vanguard, they surrounded and upset the tumen of Hadji Seifeddin. Timur's warriors, unable to withstand the onslaught, fled. Then Emir Seifeddin and the soldiers who were near him dismounted, put their shields in front of them and, falling to their knees, began to shower the advancing Tatars with arrows. Timur sent several koshuns from his reserve to help them. Thanks to this, his right flank escaped destruction. The opponents retreated more than once and again attacked each other. Both troops suffered heavy losses, but did not achieve success that day either.
According to Ibn Arabshah, before the battle on the third day, one of the military leaders of the right wing of Aktau demanded that Toktamysh give him one emir and permission to kill him. Most likely, they were talking about Kunche-oglan, who passed to Toktamysh. Toktamysh replied that his request would be granted after the battle and that now was not the time to settle personal scores. But the rebellious Aktau did not stop insisting. “He (Toktamysh) objected: “We (are) in grave grief, which worries (us) more than your misfortune, so be patient and do not rush, but calm down and do not be afraid: what is due (to him) will not go away from anyone, and what he has a right to will not be lost. Do not force a blind man to seek refuge on a cliff, and do not be one of those who honor Allah for the sake of profit; you (now) seem to be in the middle of the night of misfortune, which has already passed, and the dawn of prosperity, which has already dawned (that is, victory is already close, - I.M.
), so stay in your place and attack your opponents, advance and don’t lag behind, and do what you’re ordered.” But this emir (did not listen and) moved with a huge crowd; all the traitors and apostates followed him, and all his tribe, whose name was Aktau. As a result of this, Toktamyshevo’s army was upset and the arrows of his desire did not hit the place where they were launched.”
“Timur had previously sent emissaries to the vassals of Toktamysh’s army, instructing them to induce them to betray on the day of the battle, and he made them a promise if they agreed to this. The matter was discussed between them, and on the day when the two armies came together hand in hand, they retreated with a large number of their confidants, following all the rebels and all those who had allowed themselves to be bribed. This was the Aktau tribe. This betrayal created a void in the troops of Toktamysh, and the chain of their battle formation was broken.” This is what medieval authors tell us. Bek-Yaryk-oglan and Tash-Timur-oglan left together with Aktau. Toktamysh found himself in a difficult situation. Sources are silent about the reasons for the betrayal. Only in the “Genealogy of the Turks” it is said that “this defeat went to Toktamysh Khan due to the inclination of his great emirs towards Timur Gurgan.”
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Tourism and recreation on the Terek River
The Terek River is located first in the mountainous and foothill parts of the temperate zone, then in the agricultural and steppe part of its sharply continental zone, and finally crosses a semi-desert area on the border with the dry subtropics of middle Dagestan. There are mountains, huge hills, absolutely flat plains, and even lowlands. As a result, the above-Terrek and beyond-Terrek landscapes allow for recreation of any direction. Moreover, they are connected with the rest of the country by railway tracks and highways: R-217 (Caucasus), A-161 (Military Georgian), Vladikavkaz-Alagir, Mozdok-Nazran, Grozny-Chervlenaya, Grebenskaya- Khasavyurt, R-215 (Astrakhan-Makhachkala) and Kizlyar-Sulak. In addition, Vladikavkaz airport is located in Beslan.
First of all, I would like to dwell on the chances for speleotourists, climbers and mountain trekkers. Very common are ascents to Zilga-Khokh, Arzu, Kuarzhin, Mount Geleva, Pioneer Peak, Kazbek and Stolovaya (this is the background of the center of Vladikavkaz in most photos). Once upon a time in the village of Ukhatskoye, people were cheered up by a homemade ski slope. That is, among extreme sports enthusiasts, hikes along the Trusovsky, Daryal and Baltic gorges have been known since Soviet times. If all this is not for you, just take a ride along the 2 km long Daryal tunnel. By the way, in the most successful recreational spots, the Terek River still has recreation centers:
- Ski resort "Armkhi" (climb from the mouth of the river of the same name along its bed);
- “Gudauri Resort” (a cable car line leads from Kobi to its peaks);
- “Alpine camp Gveleti” (road to the waterfall of the same name outside the village of Gveleti);
- BO water station "Terek" (Vladikavkaz, Kh. Khetagurova Ave., 12, there is a "cable car" to the town of Lysyaya Gora, and on it there is an equipped "video" and a path);
- BO "Quiet Island" (Chervlenaya, Chechnya);
- Country club "New Bridge" (Babayurt district, Dagestan).
Horseback riding on the Terek River is a very common activity. But already in the foothills and flat areas of the Terek region. You will be provided with a horse in Vladikavkaz, Beslan and Mozdok. In the river basin, these are the cities with the most developed infrastructure. The hikes take place along idyllic dirt roads in the space of landscape reserves - forests.
A beach holiday on the Terek River makes no sense. You can only have a picnic on a more or less suitable section of the water's edge (as a rule, they are all close to large cities). Bathing, as a rule, takes place in special storage ponds. There are especially many of them in the Babayurt region of the Republic of Dagestan - Bolshoy Achikol, Ocean, Beshenoye, Travyanoye, Zmeyka, Estuaries and Agrakhan Bay. Here the depth is finally suitable, and the swimmer is not carried away anywhere. But there are plenty of places for tent camping on the Terek itself. The brightest ones are located, first of all, in the tracts already described.
Event-based (also ethnographic and rural) holidays on the Terek River concern the following holidays: Tarangelos (in the villages of the Trusov Gorge), Lomisoba (in the settlements of the Daryal Gorge, Balta, Vladikavkaz, Beslan and Elkhotovo), Iron Bagany (Mozdok), Day Spring Equinox of Kabarda (May), Benoevskaya Spring (Chechnya), Shashlik Festival (Shelkovskaya, Chechnya) and Day of National Centers (ibid.). On the territory of the Kizilyurt district of Dagestan you can become a guest of the “Serpentine of Friendship”. The program of such events includes performances by folklore groups, fairs, and demonstrations of traditional holiday competitions and rituals.
Rafting on the Terek River is quite popular. Experienced rafters or kayakers begin it in the Trusovsky Gorge presented above (the villages of Kobi and Almasiani already overlook the Georgian Military Road). They stand on the water at the bridge. Until Almasiani it is a continuous climb of medium difficulty. In addition, both the 3 bridges themselves and the cables securing them are dangerous for the water operator. The Kobi Basin is 4 kilometers long. Along the Georgian Military Road, water collects in a single channel. The speed remains high. Behind the “crushed stone” bridge leading to Sioni, a rapid track begins. Behind the canyon, a simple straight section awaits you, ending with a push towards the left bank. Behind the branch of the stream (on the left) there is a serious threshold. And later you will pass a difficult rift about 1 km long. Those who like to take risks do not like to take risks and set sail behind all the dams of the Vladikavkaz agglomeration (in Beslan). The riverbed is passable for a kayak right up to the gorge. From the mouth of the Malka it passes exclusively through a sandy-clayey valley. Bon Voyage! Do not forget that you will have to enclose the strategic water protection zones of different hydroelectric power stations.
“Timur Khan turned this region into ruins and ruins, and his people burned it at the stake.”
The Tatar army broke up into separate parts. One group went to the Don, Dnieper and Crimea, the other, led by Udurku, disappeared into the mountains of the central Caucasus. Toktamysh Khan himself went north, “to the wooded area.” Tamerlane, leaving the convoy to Miran Shah, chased after Toktamysh.
An interesting fact is how the retreat of Toktamysh’s military leaders took place. After the rebels abandoned the army of Toktamysh before the battle on the third day, the latter, realizing the inevitability of defeat, adopted a retreat plan with the emirs. The Golden Horde military leader Udurku overtook Tamerlane's army and settled in the latter's rear in the Caucasus Mountains. Naturally, this was done in order to delay the enemy army, to give Toktamysh the opportunity to go deep into the country so that he could gather a new army, and to create a second army in the Caucasus himself.
Timur first tried to pursue Toktamysh, but when he learned that a new army was being formed in his rear, he turned back to the Caucasus and defeated Udurku’s army, and sent the commander himself in an iron cage to Samarkand, where he died.
After ensuring a reliable rear, Timur began the systematic destruction of the Golden Horde cities. Russian chronicles note that Timur “carried out major battles and great destruction in the Horde, many battles and clashes, victories, defeated a large army of his enemy and destroyed many cities, killed many people and so went through the entire Tatar land.”
Evliya Celebi, having traveled almost the entire former territory of the Golden Horde in the 17th century, saw many cities destroyed by Timur. Turkish traveler Fr. And he speaks with particular pain about Sarai, the ruins of which back in the 17th century were “visible at a distance of two days’ march.” Timur “destroyed and devastated this majestic city in such a way that it is worthy of regret, and he chopped its inhabitants into pieces.”
For more than a year, Tamerlane’s army destroyed the cities of the Golden Horde and exterminated the inhabitants. The Tatar resistance was broken, but not stopped. The entire population was hostile and continued the guerrilla war. Russian chronicles note that “the wrath of God came upon Timur’s army, the pestilence was strong on people and cattle.” We are talking about the spread of the plague. In addition to various epidemics, famine also began. Timurid historians also Fr. Therefore, Aksak Timur in the spring of 1396 gave the order to retreat and went to Iran, through the Caucasus, taking with him looted property and prisoners.
The Golden Horde remained in ruins. The plague began to spread, and in connection with this epidemic, quarantine zones appeared. This prevented the restoration of destroyed cities. Only in 1398 Toktamysh was able to restore his power. But later the processes of decay made themselves felt more and more strongly.
Ilnur Mirgaleev
Reference
Ilnur Midkhatovich Mirgaleev - Candidate of Historical Sciences, Head of the Center for Research of the Golden Horde and Tatar Khanates named after. M.A. Usmanov Institute of History. Sh. Marjani AN RT.
- Laureate of the State Prize of the Republic of Tatarstan in the field of science and technology.
- Area of scientific interests: socio-political history and source studies of the Golden Horde and Tatar khanates. Scientific editor of the fourth volume of “History of the Tatars from Ancient Times”, coordinator of the collective monograph “The Golden Horde in World History”, published jointly with the University of Oxford.
- Co-author of several textbooks on the history of the Tatar people and Tatarstan.
- Co-author of eight educational and methodological manuals on the Unified State Exam.
- Author of more than 130 scientific articles and author of five books on Golden Horde history. Scientific editor of dozens of monographs, collective works, scientific collections, editor-in-chief of the yearbooks "Golden Horde Civilization" and "Numismatics of the Golden Horde", the magazine "Golden Horde Review" (included in the list of peer-reviewed journals of the Higher Attestation Commission, as well as in such international databases as SCOPUS, Web of Science, Ulrich's, etc.), member of the editorial boards of the journal “Studia et Documenta Turcologica” (Romania), the journal “Crimean Historical Review”, etc.
- Organizer of the International Golden Horde Forum.
- With his participation and scientific guidance, such sources as “Kara tawarikh” by Utemisha-haji, “Umdet al-akhbar” by Abdulgaffar Kyrymi, “Shuabi Panjgana” by Rashid ad-din, “Qalandar-name” by Abu Bakr Qalandar and a number of other sources.
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Fishing and hunting on the Terek River
The Terek River will also make your fishing dreams come true. Fishing is fraught with acquaintance with pike, roach, perch, ruffe, crucian carp, asp, ide, pike perch, carp, bream and catfish. Red Book fish simply do not exist here. And beyond Ossetia there are no-go zones. There are many catchable areas on the Terek River. Fishing is successful, for the most part, in the Stavropol, Chechen and Dagestan areas. Above, it is either a mad stream, or a network of strategic objects, or a water protection zone of natural parks. Water fishing enthusiasts praise the places near Stoderevskaya, Galyugaevskaya, Gvardeyskaya, Znamensky, Ishcherskaya, Nadterechny, Podgorny, Vinogradny, Staroshchedrinsky, Grebensky bridge, Khamamatyurt, and villages of the Babayurt district.
When praising fishing on the Terek River, visitors usually remember a hunt full of amazing sensations. You can shoot mountain, steppe and forest game. On the territory of Georgian and Russian lands it is allowed to shoot yak, tur, and deer (these three are only available for big money). Further conversation concerns wild boar, roe deer, chamois, Dagestan tur, wolf and fox. And also a gopher, a brown hare, a steppe ferret and a chipmunk. Flying game includes pheasant, partridge, grouse, woodcock, capercaillie, duck and goose. The extermination of Pallas' cat, musk deer, herons, swans, storks, cranes, owls, and some grebes is prohibited. The Red Book includes all birds of prey, a small number of rodents and a flying squirrel.
Protection of the Terek River
The protection of the Terek River is closely related to the inspection of water protection zones of natural parks, garbage collection in towns and villages in Georgia and 5 Russian regions. In terms of water treatment, the protection of the Terek River requires more active activities in the territory of Vladikavkaz, the only regional center in the Terek region. There are several enterprises operating in the metropolis. And recently, sewerage has broken into the river even higher up – in the large Ossetian village of Chmi. The water becomes contaminated with pathogenic bacteria. This also happens below – in Elkhotovo. In the middle reaches, protection of the Terek River should be more effective. Because the water's edge is most densely populated by the villages on the border of North Ossetia and Kabardino-Balkaria. Elkhotovo, Terek, Maisky, Mozdok are extended (continuous) agglomerations. In Chechnya, the quality of Terek water was considered satisfactory. Although often dead fish are found here. The prosecutor's office immediately takes over the investigation (successfully). There are no cities or large settlements in Dagestan near the river. And yet another problem comes here - since there are no clear sides near the floodplain part of the valley, the water overflows its banks during a flood. Bank protection work is constantly required here. But there is not enough money for them.
This detailed description of the Terek River should inspire a water adventure throughout the Russian Eastern Caucasus. Its terraces are attractive. The unique splendor of traveling between high mountains, emerald hills, rich fields and fragrant steppe with endless villages is unique. The mysterious wastelands in the lower reaches, cut by hundreds of canals and densely overgrown with reeds, are enchanting.
Education
Educational institutions in the city
Educational institution | Type of institution | Address |
Modern Humanitarian Academy (branch in Terek) | higher | st. Lenina, 25 |
State Vocational School No. 18 | specialized secondary | st. Beslaneeva, 2 |
Municipal educational institution Lyceum No. 1 | average | st. Lermontova, 74 |
Municipal educational institution secondary school No. 2 | average | st. Pushkina, 119 |
Municipal educational institution secondary school No. 3 | average | st. Panagova, 114 |
Municipal educational institution secondary school No. 4 | average | st. Terskaya, 98 |
Republican boarding school No. 8 | basic general | st. Fanzieva, 6 |
Progymnasium No. 1 | initial | st. Panagova, 118 |
Progymnasium No. 2 | initial | st. Beslaneeva, 3A |
Kindergarten No. 3 “Nur” | initial | st. Kankosheva, 51 |
Preschool department No. 4 | initial | st. Nogmova, 7 |
Preschool department No. 5 | initial | st. Fanzieva, 10 |