Grodno is one of the most beautiful cities in Belarus, located on the banks of the Neman. The first mention of Grodno in chronicles dates back to the 11th century. At different periods of its history, it was part of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, the Russian Empire and the USSR, having absorbed the history and culture of these states.
You can get to Grodno by rail. It goes back and forth from Moscow and St. Petersburg. Grodno also has its own international airport, where you can fly from all over the world, with or without transfers. Bus service is developed throughout the country.
Observation deck
A postcard view of the city opens from the embankment near the house on Darwin Street, 24 (popularly the “red house”). The mighty Neman flows below and the traffic on the bridge makes noise, while castles and cathedrals are watched from the opposite bank.
– This is the best view of the city: super ancient castles, our drama theater, the most famous school (I studied there, by the way) and even a tank. This is the accumulation of all eras. A large abandoned building on the shore is a former beer factory. We caught the time when he was still working. It’s a pity to look at it now, because it really could have been a cool platform.
– It would be cool to create a party space like the Minsk OK16 in the brewery building. But it is located right next to residential buildings, and most residents will not approve of raves. There was a time when there was a skate park near the plant, but the neighbors were unhappy and constantly complained about the noise, so it only worked for a short time.
How to get there?
Unfortunately, trains mainly pass through another border regional center - Brest, so the choice of trains to Grodno is small. For example, there is a train “Vitebsk – Grodno”, which passes through Orsha twice a day – at night and in the evening. But you can get to Orsha at night only on Saturday, Sunday and Monday (we don’t take personal transport), and on other days there is only one option.
But here, too, not everything is so simple. Will you be ready to arrive in Grodno at 5:24 am ? There is an option to rent a room in a hostel or hotel from this early time. In this case, a one-way trip will cost you from 15 to 20 rubles.
If you go through Minsk, then minibuses leave from the capital every 1-1.5 or trains, the last of which leaves at 19:12 (this is one of those that arrive on the same day). One of these will cost you from 7 to 18 rubles , but you also need to get to Minsk itself! So with this option you will spend at least 17 rubles on travel.
Kolozha Church and Park
The wooden church of Saints Boris and Gleb was built back in the 12th century, but this hill has always been an important place for localities - in ancient times there was a pagan temple here. During the restoration, the façade was partially clad in a different material, but on one side the authentic stonework is still visible. Kolozha stands on the high bank of the Neman - and the view from there is magical.
– My career as a photographer began in this place; about 10 years ago all photo sessions took place here. I like this park: it is quite picturesque, not so well-maintained, and it still has some dampness. Now weddings are often filmed here. People get married in Kolozha and immediately take pictures here. It’s not that I’m very particular about this place, but it’s clearly noted in my biography.
Railroad bridge
– The Grodno-Bialystok train travels across this bridge, and this is an important route for Grodno residents. The bridge looks very cool, such a picturesque industrial look. And this is a worthy place for photos, I also took a lot of photos here. You can even feel some of the spirit of San Francisco here. It seems to me that a city should have not only historical, but also simply picturesque places. The best view of the bridge is from the summer terrace of the Veranda restaurant.
How are we going back?
Believe it or not, on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays you can travel from Grodno to Gorki by the Grodno-Vitebsk train. He has trailer cars to Krichev. One ticket in this one will cost from 10 to almost 22 rubles , and you will travel for 10 hours. But you will arrive at 21:54 and take the last public transport to get home.
On other days, the last train from Orsha to Gorki is at 18:28 , and you will have to get to Orsha through Minsk. You need to leave the capital at 15:30 , and from Grodno (if on a train) - at 6:37 in the morning . It’s really better to take a minibus here. But it’s better to book it in advance, because the flight is too popular (probably due to the small number of trains). Either a train from Grodno to Minsk or a minibus will cost you about the same money ( 16-17 rubles ), and the total cost of all tickets is about 26-27 rubles .
Where did I live
I found the accommodation on Booking.com. It was a separate apartment in the very center of the city. I don’t like hotels and hostels, they are full of tourists and bustle.
I stopped on Stefan Batory Street, next to the Farny Church. The hostess met me at the entrance, showed everything and was surprised that I chose Grodno for vacation, and not some Turkish beach. I gave away the keys. I didn’t see her again until the day I left.
The apartment turned out to be clean, comfortable, with wi-fi, and all the main attractions were within walking distance. Accommodation for five days cost $120 (paid in Russian rubles).
Geographical features
We continue to deal with the question of where Grodno is located. This city is located in the west of Belarus, at a distance of 274 km from the capital - Minsk. The height above sea level varies from 90 meters (center) to 147 meters (on the outskirts). In the northern part of the city there are chalk quarries.
The climate is largely determined by where the city of Grodno is located. It is characterized by moderate indicators: there are fairly mild winters and cool summers. The amount of precipitation is not at all high, despite the relative proximity to the Atlantic - 552 mm per year. The maximum occurs in July and June. However, there are usually no problems with soil moisture here.
The moderation of climate averages does not extend to the extreme weather events that sometimes occur. Probably, the proximity to Europe, which suffers from frequent weather disasters, has an effect.
Impression
Grodno, view of the old castle / photo by Alena Patrikeeva
One of the most vivid impressions of a trip to Grodno was the Farny Church.
I have a comical incident connected with the church. One evening I went to the service to once again listen to the organ, and was so carried away by the music and chants that I did not notice how the church was half empty. Heading towards the exit, I discovered that the door was locked. It was awkward to distract the worshipers, and it was unclear what to do. A few minutes later a couple of tourists joined me with the same problem. The man found a church minister somewhere, and we were let out through the courtyard, which turned out to be very nice and looked like something out of a Christmas card.
The most pleasant case is meeting a local resident, a native Muscovite, a historian by training. She moved from Moscow to Grodno and happily told me about every building we passed during our many-hour walks. Thanks to her, I learned a lot of historical, cultural and everyday details from the life of Grodno, including modern life. I also took home a trunk full of purchases, starting with sausage and ending with Belarusian shoes (both of excellent quality).
Korobchitsy
On the road to the village of Korobchitsy, a couple of kilometers from Grodno, there are several lakes and reservoirs. We turn off the highway and find ourselves on a narrow road right between two technical reservoirs of a local fish farm: there is water on both sides, strange concrete structures stick out here and there, and reeds rustle. The landscape is peaceful and a little disturbing at the same time.
– This is the most significant place for me. In general, you are considered to be the first ones I brought here. I discovered it by accident a couple of years ago: I was driving to Korobchitsy to visit my parents and thought “cool lake, I need to turn it off” and literally turned the steering wheel into a ditch. The first time I spent here several hours: I just sat in the car, looked around and thought that a person who can fall in love with the Belarusian nature, so very raw and nondescript, must be deeply spiritual. And, of course, I did several shoots here - it’s too atmospheric a place.
// Text and photos – Alexandra Murashko
“This is a city of hidden places. There’s always something new to find here – just turn to another corner.”
– Did the visa-free regime, which has been in effect in Grodno for several years, have any impact? Is it noticeable that there are more tourists?
– Yes, visa-free travel really works; tourists are transported in large groups. I really like hearing different languages in the city: now there are Polish, Lithuanian, English, and German.
– What are your latest discoveries in Grodno?
– In general, Grodno for me is a city of hidden places. You can always find something new here - you just need to turn off the usual road and look around the corner.
And all the latest discoveries are related to nature. A year or two ago, my friend and I often got into the car, opened maps, looked for some bodies of water around Grodno and drove there. We stopped and asked locals how to get there. On the one hand, I was looking for locations for filming, but at the same time I fell in love with photographing nature, no matter with a phone or a camera. Every day I photograph the same sky, the same grass, and I like it every day. This is my outlet; there is a lack of this in the commercial sphere.
Diana gets behind the wheel to give us a tour of the city's landmarks and places that are personally important to her.
