Independent trip to Rostov the Great, 2015

Rostov the Great is a great idea for a day trip from Moscow, because Rostov is only 200 kilometers from the capital, and you can get there very easily by train. However, looking ahead, I will say that you should not delude yourself. Like all cities, Rostov the Great is a city of contrasts. Read more in my review of an independent trip to Rostov the Great (Yaroslavl).

Rostov the Great. Kremlin

My friends invited me to Rostov the Great, and without thinking twice I agreed. We booked train tickets and hotel in advance; after all, Rostov is a popular city. Not many people know that there are quite a lot of attractions in Rostov; usually tourists look at the Kremlin and miss a lot of interesting things. We are for leisurely independent travel, so to speak, for “total immersion” in the atmosphere. This note will not contain historical information; those who are interested in history can read in detail the historical information about Rostov the Great here.

To Rostov Veliky by train

Getting to Rostov on your own is very easy - in the evening a high-speed train departs from the Yaroslavsky station, which takes a little less than three hours to Rostov. The seats on the train are soft, comfortable, and there are power outlets. There are quite a lot of hotels in Rostov and almost all of them are located in restored merchant houses. This is exactly where we decided to stay. Our hotel was called the Frog Princess, and on the ground floor there is a museum of the same name, which children like. So, at the end of the working day on Friday, we loaded onto the train and set off on a mini-trip. I’ll say right away that I was poorly prepared for the trip; somehow I didn’t have time. Therefore, I almost completely trusted my friends who had at least read something about Rostov the Great. The train arrived in Rostov around 21. Having looked at the map that the station was not so far from our hotel, we decided to go on foot using the navigator. It should be noted that this was not the best decision, because the streets in Rostov are poorly lit in the evening, the roads are broken, and there are virtually no sidewalks. Add to this spring puddles and mud. In general, in about 30 minutes we finally reached Moskovskaya Street and our hotel.

Park named after the October Revolution

The park area arose from Rostov-on-Don to Nakhichevan in 1926. The development of the area continued after the merger of the two cities.

The territory of 17 hectares is loved by the townspeople: festivals, city holidays and celebrations are held here. In 2000, the park was radically reconstructed, now you can play sports here, spend family weekends and just relax on a bench in the shady alleys.

At the service and attention of visitors:

mini-football field;
skating rink "Ledograd";
rope route;
paintball town;
numerous playgrounds;
cafe;
souvenir products;
attractions – the town of “Shum-Gum Land”;
"Reconciliation" bench;
monument to Fevronia and Peter;
Walk of Fame and 56th Army Memorial;
a bird yard with peacocks and flamingos living there;
a lake where ducks and swans live;
The 65-meter Ferris wheel “One Sky” is the third largest in Russia, equipped with heated cabins and night lighting.

Looking for dinner

After leaving our things in the room, we went somewhere to eat, because after a working day no one ate. The first place we went to was the Ivan Tsarevich cafe, which is located next to the hotel. However, the restaurant was closed for special services, so we had to look for another place. Then we set off towards the Rostov Kremlin, hoping that at least something would be working in the very center (it was only 22-00). On the way, we stopped at a couple more establishments and were turned away everywhere - the locals really didn’t want to work. Opposite the Kremlin we saw a bright sign for the Rus cafe. We were so glad that the cafe was open!!! The interior is simple: the walls are painted with scenes from Russian fairy tales, the furniture is simple. But at that time it didn’t matter to us, since they fed us here! The food was pretty decent and simple. We ate soup and salad each, leaving not much money for everything. Overall the cafe is ok, you won't leave hungry.

After dinner we went to the hotel to save up our strength for the next day. I already wrote about the Frog Princess hotel in a separate article. But I repeat once again - if you are sensitive to noise, then this hotel is not for you. For example, this turned into a sleepless night for me. Well, let's not talk about the bad - the hotel is quite new, it has recent renovations and good furniture. Maybe I was unlucky with the number. But after night there always comes morning, and time for breakfast.

Princess Frog

The Frog Princess does not have its own restaurant, so for breakfast we were directed to the Ivan Tsarevich restaurant, the same one that was closed the day before for special service. Naturally, there was no buffet here; we were fed a fairly good and hearty breakfast from the menu. In the morning we were alone here, so I took pictures of the entire fabulous interior of this establishment.

Cafe Ivan-Tsarevich

Sights of Rostov Veliky: route for one day

At breakfast, we discussed our plan for the day: we planned to start the walk from the Rostov Merchants Museum, then walk to the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery, walk to the Rostov enamel factory. After visiting the factory, we planned a visit to the exhibitions of the Rostov Kremlin and a walk along Lake Nero. For the evening we also planned dinner and departure by train to Moscow. Thus, in a day we had to explore all the main attractions of Rostov.

Rostov Veliky

Zoo

The zoo is one of the largest institutions in Russia and Europe. It was founded in 1927 by a biologist of the 3rd school. More than 5000 individuals are kept. Each type of animal has its own enclosures, cages and pavilions. An artificial reservoir has been recreated for waterfowl.

On the territory of the zoo you can ride a pleasure tram and a horse-drawn carriage. Every day at 13:00 visitors can watch the feeding of the animals. There is a thematic schedule that is written for a month in advance and you can plan your visit in advance.

Twice a week, a “Young Zoologist” club is held for schoolchildren. Celebrations are held on the territory of the zoo to mark the pet’s birthday.

Museum of Rostov Merchants

No sooner said than done - the clock had not even struck 10 am, and we were already on the threshold of the Rostov Merchants Museum on Moskovskaya Street. We bought tickets and a small guide to the halls. The museum is located in the former estate of the Kekins, to whom most of the exhibition is dedicated. The museum has restored the furnishings of a merchant's house. Here you can see various interesting things that belonged to them: for example, a women's kokoshnik from the 18th century, family silver. The museum is very educational and cozy. I highly recommend visiting it. At the end of the day, we even left positive reviews in the corresponding book.

Museum of Rostov Merchants

After the museum of Rostov merchants, we continued our journey along Moskovskaya Street, looking at the architecture along the way. I must say that even in the center of Rostov we noticed a large number of houses after fires. It’s a shame, because our history is burning before our eyes.

Rostov Veliky

Assumption Cathedral

The Assumption Cathedral is the oldest in Russia, the history of which is connected with the life of Ancient Rus'. The first building was erected in 910. The cathedral was engulfed in flames four times, and each time the townspeople built it from the ashes.

The cathedral, built in 1508, withstood the Lithuanian invasion, but was completely looted. The conquerors took away the miracle worker's shrine, cast from gold, the church treasury with jewelry, and even tore off the carved patterns on icons made of gold and silver.

Foreigners were unable to remove the thousand-pound bells, and the Rostov zones have been spilling over Russia for almost 300 years.

Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery

The next object of our trip was the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery. By 11:30 a.m. there was already a brisk trade in souvenirs and tourist buses were parked nearby.

On the way to the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery

Despite the fact that the monastery is active, right at the entrance it was possible to purchase a tour of the monastery, which we took advantage of. It should be noted that we were incredibly lucky with the guide. I haven't heard such an interesting and exciting story for a long time!

Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery

I recommend that you take a tour of the monastery, because this will allow you to see things that you would not be able to see for yourself without a guide. So our small group was allowed to go down to the underground temple, which is closed to everyone. Then we climbed a narrow staircase to the very dome of one of the cathedrals. Of course, after the excursion we visited the observation deck on the territory of the monastery and admired Lake Nero. Overall, we really enjoyed the excursion!

You can read more about the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery here.

Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery

Despite the seemingly well-kept appearance of the monastery, if you look inside you will be horrified by the condition. For example, this is what the staircase to the observation deck looks like.

Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery

Rostov enamel

But as they say, that’s not all. After visiting the holy place, we decided to go to a store at the Rostov enamel factory, where they sell silver items with enamel inserts. Enamel is a special type of work with enamel. This type of fishing has been preserved in Rostov from ancient times to this day.

I had to look a little for the factory store, but the surest way to find it is to ask the locals. Any passerby will tell you, because everyone in Rostov knows this factory. That’s where my friend and I hung out for a long time. Many will think that Rostov enamel products are old-fashioned and no one wears them. However, we were pleasantly surprised by the modern design of the jewelry. Well done factory designers!

More about the factory store

Factory of Rostov Finifti

After an hour of shopping, we decided to go to the Kremlin, because the Kremlin is the pearl of Rostov.

What to bring

Rostov was lucky with souvenirs; the rich history of the city and the crafts of its residents allowed us to avoid banal plates and magnets. The main pride is Rostov enamel. Colored enamel miniatures on jewelry, icons, and boxes are incredibly popular. Beware of fakes! More and more often, travelers complain about outright “stampings” from China; they have nothing to do with the handmade work of Rostov craftsmen. Real enamel is usually marked with the mark of production - there are 5 workshops and factories working with it in the city; it is better to buy it in branded shops at museums and enterprises or in serious souvenir shops.

The second reason to clear some space on the souvenir shelf is black-polished ceramics. The outskirts of Rostov are rich in deposits of ceramic clay, from which local craftsmen became adept at making dishes and crafts in the 19th century, surprisingly reminiscent of cast iron in appearance. One of the leading productions is Shabalov’s workshop. All ceramics are made by hand, each product is a small work of art.

As for edible souvenirs: in past centuries Rostov was famous for its gingerbreads, but this art was lost. You will come across printed sweet souvenirs made locally - buy and try. If you like it, buy more, give it to friends and praise it in your reports. Look, with such little effort the former greatness of Rostov gingerbread makers will be revived.

Rostov - a city of contrasts

I would like to say a few words about the fact that you should not perceive Rostov as a picture city. Turning off the main street you can see the squalor and poor condition of the sidewalks and roads.

For example, such an estate was located directly opposite our hotel, on Moskovskaya Street.

Rostov Veliky

But this picture is the norm for the city: an old wooden house with boarded up windows.

Rostov Veliky

I think that in a couple of years there will be no wooden houses left in Rostov. You can see this picture everywhere. This is not Suzdal; in Rostov no one follows a unified style in the center. It's a pity.

Rostov Veliky

This is what the roads look like in Rostov the Great.

Rostov Veliky

Gostiny Dvor

After visiting the Kremlin, tourists will not fail to stop by Gostiny Dvor. In the huge shopping complex, the oldest rows are located along the northern country. The Emelyanov merchants laid out their goods here. They are still called Emelyanovskys.

The Emelyanov merchants took part in the reconstruction after the fire of 1841, which destroyed the wooden Gostiny Dvor. The city could not do without Gostiny Dvor, because the Rostov fair was in third place in importance and attracted merchants from all over Russia.

Thanks to the efforts of the merchants, the shopping arcades have completely changed - arched entrances, colonnades, pediments with carved inserts, elements that distinguish the architectural monument.

Rostov Kremlin

However, the path from the enamel factory to the Kremlin is not long, and the roads in Rostov are as broken as after the war. Well, nothing, we were prepared and equipped accordingly. Along the way, we didn’t stop taking pictures. In Rostov you can find wonderful examples of wooden modernism. So, here it is - the handsome Rostov Kremlin! At the entrance to the Kremlin, we purchased a single ticket to visit all exhibitions (its cost is 400 rubles). This was the right decision, because many exhibitions are held simultaneously on the territory of the Kremlin, and tickets are sold only at the entrance to the Kremlin. It took us about 4 hours to visit all the exhibitions in the Kremlin!

Rostov Kremlin

On the territory of the Rostov Kremlin

There's a lot to see here: there are objects from archaeological excavations, an exhibition of church values, and icons.

In the Rostov Kremlin

A stunning exhibition of church utensils in the Church of Hodegetria. By the way, be sure to visit it, this church has a simply stunning interior.

Church of Hodegetria

On the territory of the Rostov Kremlin, you cannot miss the observation deck, which offers unforgettable views of the Kremlin and Lake Nero.

Stairs to the observation deck

The observation deck itself can barely fit 10 people.

Observation deck

After viewing the exhibitions, we went out to the Metropolitan Garden and looked into the Garden House, where there is a cozy cafe! Here you can also buy delicious honey gingerbread, which we took with us to Moscow.

In the garden house

After visiting the Kremlin's exhibitions, we could not pass by the Assumption Cathedral - the oldest building in Rostov the Great. The inside of the cathedral is in very poor condition, everything is scaffolded. But even in this state, the cathedral makes an indelible impression!

Assumption Cathedral

Inside the Assumption Cathedral

Feeling the power of the ancient building, we went out into the street... and heard a marvelous, miraculous, miraculous thing - the Rostov bells. It was so beautiful that I can't put it into words. All the people who were near the cathedral froze in silence, enjoying the beautiful sounds. The walls of the Rostov Kremlin create excellent acoustics for these unearthly sounds. By the way, for a fee you can go up to the bell tower and examine the huge bells.

Belfry

Rostov ramparts

After visiting the Rostov Kremlin, we went for a short walk along the Rostov ramparts, which are located around the Kremlin. If you have time, do not deny yourself the pleasure of once again admiring the Kremlin from the outside. It seems that time has stopped here and the views that open from the shafts have not changed for the last 150 years!

Ramparts

Interesting for children

In modern and beautiful Rostov-on-Don there are many places where an exciting and useful holiday is possible for children and adults:

The DonPark water park, opened in 2014, is a popular place for recreation and entertainment. It is located on the shores of Salt Lake and includes about 40 attractions and water slides, 2 heated pools and 2 regular ones, a jacuzzi, a cafe and much more. Water park address: Rostov region, Bataysk, Vostochnoe highway, 7/3. To visit here, you first need to get to the suburban railway station of Rostov-on-Don, which is located on Privokzalnaya Square, 2/1 (buses No. 3, 3a, 7, 31, 67, 98, 109 run to the Prigorodny Station stop, 113, 133 and 516). After this, you need to transfer to bus No. 109 or 133, going to the Salt Lake station in the city of Bataysk. It’s easy to check the cost on the water park’s website;
The Rostov Dolphinarium was founded in 2009. The institution has 3 swimming pools, spectator stands and beautiful scenery. The show features dolphins, fur seals, beluga sturgeon and walruses. Here you can buy souvenirs, purchase photos of artists with animals, and have a snack in a cafe. Dolphinarium address: Kommunistichesky Ave., 36/4. It is easy to get to the place by buses No. 34, 57, 94, 96, 98 and minibuses No. 10, 20, 25, 34, 73, 93, 94, 96, 98 (stop “Park Skazka”). Opening hours and prices vary depending on the season. You can find out more information on the dolphinarium website;
The Rostov Museum of Cosmonautics was founded in 2009. Here you can watch films about the work and life of people in orbit, see personal belongings of astronauts, documents and photographs, navigation instruments, suits and much more. Museum address: Stachki Avenue, 231/2. You can get there by buses No. 16, 64, 158A, 457 and minibuses No. 16, 23 and 25 (stop “Strachki, 231”). You can visit the museum any day from 9:00 to 16:00. A ticket for adults costs 250 rubles, for children - 150 rubles. This price includes a demonstration of video materials. Photography in the museum costs 250 rubles, for video filming you need to pay 450 rubles;
The Rostov-on-Don Zoo was opened in 1927 and was originally a small zoological garden. Now its area is 90 hectares, about 400 species of animals live here. The zoo is located on the street. Zoological, 3. The work schedule of the institution changes depending on the period. You can check prices and schedule on the official website of the zoo;
The Rostov State Puppet Theater is known as one of the oldest in the country. It was founded in 1935. The building that currently houses the theater was built in the 1960s. Performances are held here for children aged two years and older. On the theater’s website you can purchase tickets online and view the current playbill and work schedule of the institution.

Excursions with children will be comfortable, since the city has a well-developed infrastructure and it is easy to get around by public transport or car. You can have a tasty snack in cafes and restaurants, and modern shops allow you to purchase the necessary goods.

Lake Nero

So, unnoticed along the ramparts, we reached Lake Nero itself. Lake Nero is another attraction of Rostov. They say that the fairy-tale frog princess, who received an arrow of happiness from Ivan Tsarevich, lived here. In summer, you can take a boat ride on Lake Nero and photograph the Rostov Kremlin from the water. But at the beginning of May, when we were in Rostov, we only saw boats on the pier.

On the shore of Lake Nero

There is also a lot of interesting things to do on the coastal street. For example, the private art gallery Russian Vertograd.

On the shore of Lake Nero

After breathing in the lake air, walking along the shore and photographing the view of the Spaso-Yakovlevsky Monastery, we headed back to the center along the same route.

Results of the trip

Having driven about 200 more kilometers on the way home, startled by stones flying into the windshield, we find ourselves stuck in the usual holiday traffic jams. However, we were not too upset - the positive emotions we received from the trip were still strong. Two gas stations and almost 600 kilometers traveled fully justify the new impressions of the Russian province.

We touched history and were sincerely happy for small towns where local residents are happy to share their good mood with guests. I wanted to come here again, but already at a time when the Volga will not be so cold, and historical places will begin to be buried in greenery. Then we can walk along the quiet provincial streets and get a completely different impression.

Author: Leonid Dubina